Okay this is a long post but having had acne I am now obsessive about skin care. I developed adult onset acne at about 21 and spent three years in and out of the dermatologist’s office. I have tried everything including accutane and all the different antibiotics as well as all the various topicals. Accutane and antibiotics cleared it up while on the medication but as soon as I finished a course of treatment the acne would return. My BF gave me a spa day for my birthday last year including a facial and this is what I learned and what has worked for me (let me qualify this by saying that I did not have cystic acne).
First of all, oil production is your skin’s way of trying to hydrate itself. Using a bunch of harsh products to dry it out will only stimulate more oil production. Additionally, the surface layers of your skin will be dry and unless you are properly exfoliating, the dry, dead surface layers will cause clogged pores and more breakouts.
On my facialist’s recommendation after that first facial, I had a series of 6 glycolic acid peels (once per week for 6 weeks). I pretty much figured she was full of crap but I had tried everything else so why not. I noticed an improvement in texture by the 3rd treatment, much, much smoother and softer. By the sixth treatment it was like different skin. I still had some staining from previous breakouts but my pores were much tighter, skin was smooth as glass and almost no new breakouts.
I continued to do a weekly peel (Glycolic or fruit acid peels are super gentle and a much better way to exfoliate your skin) for another two months then dropped it down to every other week, plus a facial once per month for about six months. Now I just do a facial and peel once per month and occasionally an extra peel if I feel like I need it.
It is extremely important to use a cleanser with a neutral PH. I use one from a company called Yon-Ka, I also use their toner. I use a 10% glycolic acid moisturizer from a company called Peter Thomas Roth (I know you can my his products online at Sephora). These three products total about $100.00 and last my 5-6 months so I am spending far less than I used to on products. I use a good oil free sunscreen in the morning and at night I use clearisil for a hour then rinse off and follow with my toner and moisturizer. I also used a product containing hydroquinone for about 4 months to even out skin tone.
A couple of other products I like are:
Origins charcoal mask. I can’t remember the exact name of it but it is black.
Origins Never a Dull Moment Scrub (don’t use it as a scrub! let is sit on the skin for about 10 minutes then rinse)
Elizabeth Arden Peel & Reveal mask
I use one of the above products about every 3 days, they are a few that I have used that I definetely notice make a difference in my skin.
A few other tips…
Never use scrubs! This is one of the worst things you can use on your skin and will only aggravate it, especially if you have acne.
Don’t use any product that contains alcohol, ever.
The best way to use benzoyl peroxide is to wear it for an hour or two before bed then rinse it off.
Don’t ever let clay masks dry on your skin, try using them in the shower for 5-10 minutes then rinse off.
Don’t wash your face more than twice per day.
Acne is not caused by anything you eat so they say but I notice tremendous in overall appearance of my skin when I cut out refined carbs, sugar, or especially dairy. I have tried Pantothenic acid but didn’t notice any particular difference but I know other people that have had positive experience with it.
Oh, and you can mix most protein powders with water instead of milk.