[quote]sdspeedracer wrote:
I’ve climbed indoors and out for >30 years and agree with all the comments except one – be careful with the finger board. Finger boards are responsible for the highest injury incidence in gym climbing by far – lots of ruptured tendons, mostly because people try too much too soon. I’m happy to provide articles and stats if anyone cares, but just be careful.
[/quote]
I’d be interested to see something backing this up. Not that I don’t believe you, just out of curiosity. I’ve used a fingerboard for years and never had any problems. I’d imagine the injuries from the fingerboard aren’t due to the board so much as the fact that people tend to use them after a session to burn out their grip. Jumping up and grabbing a board with just your finger tips when you’re already fatigued could pop a tendon pretty easily I suppose.
[quote]caselorance wrote:
man this… is just soo ironic b/c i just started climbing and i just bought a membership
next on my list is shoes so i can go with my dad’s friend that’s in Mexico right now, and sent me an email when i put in my application there and used him as a reference sayin i should come up and climb with in the summer
fuckin awesome
climbing is definitely a life changing experience
and yes easily a “spectator sport” i’m a wrestler as well and considered my grip to be superior to many
not to be cocky but rock climbing is definitly a way to humble one’s self[/quote]
Climbing in Mexico sounds sweet, I hope you get to go. I might go climbing this weekend in pennsylvania at a national park which should be fun. Nothing like Mexico though.
I’d be interested to see something backing this up. Not that I don’t believe you, just out of curiosity. I’ve used a fingerboard for years and never had any problems. I’d imagine the injuries from the fingerboard aren’t due to the board so much as the fact that people tend to use them after a session to burn out their grip. Jumping up and grabbing a board with just your finger tips when you’re already fatigued could pop a tendon pretty easily I suppose.[/quote]
I suspect you’re right, though I’d add that I’ve noticed that novices are prone to try the fingerboard before the hands are prepared or accustomed to that level of stress. Regardless of size, putting all that stress on one set of philangeal joints (maybe four fingers?) without preparing to handle it (or being too exhausted to, as you posit) is a fast ticket to trouble.
Also, it may be that the type of fingerboard matters. The old-style strips of wood may have been harder than the new Metolius-style rock rings and the like. I suspect this is just because we occasionally used crimp grips, which is a patent no-no.
Anyway, I’ll see if I can find some corroborating evidence and post it.
[quote]
I’d be interested to see something backing this up. Not that I don’t believe you, just out of curiosity. I’ve used a fingerboard for years and never had any problems. I’d imagine the injuries from the fingerboard aren’t due to the board so much as the fact that people tend to use them after a session to burn out their grip. Jumping up and grabbing a board with just your finger tips when you’re already fatigued could pop a tendon pretty easily I suppose.[/quote]
Actually, I’d say the exact opposite: that the injuries would happen when people using the hangboard(or campous boards) are cold and have not stretched.
That coupled with people using pockets–where you can fit only 1,2, or 3 fingers–would mean your tendons are likely to snap like a rubber band being pulled by an eager, older brother.
I started climbing in Krabi Thailand last November. My grips sucks, but so does my technique. I was climbing with an ex wrestler/ultimate fighter who started climbing/bouldering purely for grip training…now he just climbs.
Goto Krabi and deep water solo…awesome.[/quote]
Wow, dude was his name Gary by any chance? My friend was there in Nov. & he is an awesome climber for sure.
To the OP: And bouldering is a much better grip workout than routes thats for sure.
You should try it outside sometime (find a place to learn first) - it is soo much funner outside. And if you really like it look into trad climbing, cause its the best.
I’d be interested to see something backing this up. Not that I don’t believe you, just out of curiosity. I’ve used a fingerboard for years and never had any problems. I’d imagine the injuries from the fingerboard aren’t due to the board so much as the fact that people tend to use them after a session to burn out their grip. Jumping up and grabbing a board with just your finger tips when you’re already fatigued could pop a tendon pretty easily I suppose.
Actually, I’d say the exact opposite: that the injuries would happen when people using the hangboard(or campous boards) are cold and have not stretched.
That coupled with people using pockets–where you can fit only 1,2, or 3 fingers–would mean your tendons are likely to snap like a rubber band being pulled by an eager, older brother.[/quote]
ya know, that makes a lot of sense, but I can’t say I’ve ever seen it happen that way. Every time I’ve ever seen anyone pull or tear a tendon climbing it’s been later in the session, usually either on the board, on a dyno, or when they lose their feet and drop their bodyweight on a two finger pocket or something.