Congrats on the PR… Even if it looks easy it isn’t that much.I tried once and it was super frightening! Feared my shoulders would explode lol
Now that’s a really thorough assessment and plan of action… How can you not succeed with that? 
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It’s very easy to fail with a good plan by deviating from it. Zeal and vigor can be good attributes, if they are counter-balanced by others. With this I’m starting to attempt to tease apart everything by opting for something that fills me with confidence that when I introduce something I can understand what its impact was.
Decided to go really embrace this more modest approach to see where that gets me. Deload every fourth weeks in lifting, introduce weeks off in climbing.
| 531 | Lifting | Climbing |
|---|---|---|
| Leader | SVR II WM/RP | ccb |
| Leader | SVR II BBB | ccb |
| Leader | SVR II SSL | ccb |
| Deload | Complete | 2 on/1 off |
| Leader | SVR II WM/RP | Off (Complete) |
| Leader | SVR II (Challenge/BBB) | ccb |
| Leader | SVR II SSL | ccb |
| Deload | 7th Week Deload | Wednesday/Saturday |
| Anchor | SVR II WM/RP | ccb |
| Anchor | SVR II SSL/5x5/3/1 | ccb |
| Anchor | SVR II Joker | 2 on/1 off |
| Deload 7th Week TM Test/PR Test | Off (Complete) |
I’ll start at row one despite being about to start my second leader. I don’t think it’ll matter that I ended up with 3 leaders before my first anchor since otherwise 3/2 is a “approved” approach.
*ccb means climb/climb/build (tu/th/sa). 2 on/1 off could be done in two ways (first row is the week leading into it)
| 2 on/1 off A | 2 on/1 off B | |
|---|---|---|
| S | Build | Build |
| S | off | on |
| M | on | on |
| T | on | off |
| W | off | on |
| T | on | off |
| F | off | on |
| S | build | build |
I think I’ll opt for the A option first, and try B at some point.
Even thought about employing the 5 forward/3 back TM management strategy but decided to employ the 7th week protocol.
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What does this mean? Are you putting together new paths?
Maybe I got brain fog hitting my head but I understood nothing. What are these on, off and build days?
I know nothing about climbing, so forgive my naivety: why wouldn’t you deload the lifting and climbing simultaneously?
Yes, building boulder problems!
Haha sorry, I totally understand this makes more sense to me. On means climbing, off means off-day, and build means setting new boulder problems. These weeks would be a venue for me to have a higher climbing frequency during weeks where my lifting is on the pilot light.
Maybe this is my stimulus addiction leading me down a false path so please feel free to point it out if it seems like that.
My rationale is that climbing does not cause systemic fatigue. It is limited to the finger tendons, wrists, elbows, and maybe the shoulders. But it’s not a team sport where you are running until your lungs give out, and you aren’t getting lactic acid in any big muscles such burning out your legs. At most you’ll burn out your forearms. I’ve never had my back muscles give out during climbing.
And so, my thought process had me think that while OG 531 had a person deload every fourth week, with Forever (leaders/anchors) it is every 7th week. My hope is that I can deload lifting with the same frequency as OG 531 does, focusing on the Forever philosophy of pre-emptive medicine and that the relative increase of deloads in the weight room affords me some space to occasionally climb with a higher frequency. Seemingly, climbing responds well to frequency of practice as it is a very cerebral activity.
It has been my observation that otherwise non-fit people seem to manage to climb 4-5 times per week, however they don’t also lift. I’m trying to balance both. Meanwhile, I don’t experience that lifting has been very taxing on my fingers.
I’m really keen on avoiding future finger injuries, they are by far the slowest injuries I’ve had yet.
And, if you’ll note the final week in that 12 week cycle both are deloaded simultaneously.
Does this refer to putting tape on a wall to mark a path up?
No. There are holes drilled in to the wall, and inside the holes are (I don’t have a word for these items) metal pieces with a screw pattern. I go around with a batch of plastic climbing holds, placing them as I see fit to construct the problem to solve, and slot a screw(s) through a hole that runs through the hold and then wrench that screw into that metal piece
The only tape we use marks the start of the problem and sometimes we mark out the end, or highlight where a route runs if two are close to one another that have the same color for the holds.
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I’m not sure if they use the same word over there, but I’ve always heard them referred to as “keenserts”.
Well, it seems like you’ve thought this through.
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I did apply logic, we’ll see if it’s “logic” logic or logic logic.
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Sunday 2021-01-31
| WEEK 1 WM | |||
|---|---|---|---|
| Main Work | Target | Reps | Weight |
| A1. Press | 70% | 5 | 37 |
| 80% | 5 | 42 | |
| 90% | 7 | 47 | |
| 70% | 14+4+2 | 37 | |
| A2. T-bar Row | 350 method | 16 | 50 |
| 16 | 40 | ||
| 14 | 40 |
Kind of beefed it and forgot to do push press on this workout. Will do push presses on Wednesday instead. If that’s a good fit, I’ll keep that lift on those days and if not, next Sunday I’ll remember (hopefully)
Did 3/5ths of triceps hell, ended up hitting failure repeatedly so doing all 100 reps didn’t seem like a necessity and shaving some time of the session fit dinner better.
Capped of with a 50 rep crunch drop set.
Pretty OK session. Not a fan of 350 for T-bar Rows I realised. Will explore instead setting a 5-10-15 PR instead. Might be something worth using. See a lot of variants. 2-6-10 PR or even ranges such as (4-6)-(8-10)-(12-15) PR.
Tossed up one boulder problem yesterday.
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7 reps at 90%? Sounds like you’re in for a new max. Great work
Just to be clear, when you write
are you aware it is 90% of a 85% TM?
Thank you!
Personally, my intent remains to keep with the principles. I’ll adjust my TM as I’m supposed to next cycle (this is the first week of the current cycle).
I don’t have a progression model for some of my supplemental/assistance work mostly because I’m still figuring out what I want/can/need/should do, so if there’s place in my programming where I’ll have a more rapid increase in weights used it’ll be with assistance. Since my main lifts are moving I am going to force myself to not fuck with that @_@.
Will at some point want to do OG 531, that’s definitely calling my name. And of course, I have my siren’s call program but I won’t touch that until I’ve successfully nursed joints back to healthy and functional lest I create a permanent problem for the rest of my life. Having that siren’s call is fortunately acting as a carrot to guide my behaviour.
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I was not. If I’m totally honest I’ve been slacking on closely reading the workout portion of most logs I’m follwing and have been focusing more on the subtext and things going on around the workouts.
It remains great work anyhow, especially in the greater context of things
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Appreciate it. I’m the same, I gloss over the training details.
BTW, replied to your email fam.
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@wanna_be I don’t want to derail KD13s log. What drug were you prescribed?
Lexapro 10mg a day. I told her I didn’t want anything I couldn’t quit cold turkey and nothing with bad side effects. She said lexipro fit that perfect! 
I should have just googled it.
Not only did it fuck up my Dick to the point where 2 years later I’m still eating cialis all the time and have a 1/4 of the Sex drive, but it took multiple times to come off because the week long withdrawals were fierce.
Sorry to hear about your troubles, man. Truly.
I don’t know much cialis helps with sex drive, I thought it only gave a person an erection?
I know a sport you have genetics for
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