Nordic Blood: Climbing And Lifting / Lifting And Climbing

Does it happen to involve repetitive locomotion in a 50m rectangular pit filled with water?

Looking at the title of this log, I’d guess not.

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Doesn’t help with desire.

The man has an insane ape index.

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That’s a thing???

Very much so, yes

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Monday 2021-02-01

WEEK 1 WM
Main Work Target Reps Weight
A. Squat (ss: ab wheel & BPAs) 70% 5 84
80% 5 95
90% 11 107
70% 20 84
C. Quad Split Squat 4x8-15 reps 12 30
12 30
15 30
skipped 30

Next time, will super set ab wheel inbetween split squats. Four sets were boring.

Assistance
B. Iso-dynamic Leg Curl 3x7
D1. Abductor 2x15
D2. Adductor 2x15

Order was a bit wonky, forgot about split squats after WM.

for PR set was lit

Tuesday 2021-02-02

Felt a tendon pop while warming up on the climbing wall, honestly didn’t even register as a injury. Paid it about as much attention as one would if the knees made sounds while doing a squat. I.e., none. Did one route, and then it became obvious after I came down that I did, in fact, strain a pulley.

This is upsetting. I just had time off. My elbows were feeling good during the warm-up, and the climb. And now, finger injury. I’d write something lengthy about this but honestly: typing hurts (physically). So, yeah, super bummed out, totally frustrated, and even angry. Want to hit the gym today but I don’t think that’s best for the tendon so I’m letting it be. Maybe I can lift weights tomorrow instead. Won’t be climbing for 7-14 days.

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One of the benefits of sites like this for me is knowing that it’s normal for knees to make noises when squatting.

That sucks man. What does that mean you can’t do? How can you train around it?

I find that my hips pop more than my knees.

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My sympathies, I hope you bounce back super quick from that injury. Climbing does produce a lot more injuries than I would have imagined.

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Why do the things we love not love is back? Hope the recovery is quick dude.

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If you’re talking about swimming… hell nooo please I’m a ground creature!

Now that’s a freaking PR song

How did you enjoy the 20 reps set ahahah?

That’s a finger tendon you hurt? Super annoying indeed…

Don’t know yet, it’s difficult to gauge just how bad it is, all I know is that it’s not the worst that I’ve been through.

If the finger was all that I was dealing with, I’d utilise this time to develop other physical qualities.

Not to be a downer, but I don’t see a lot of options and I’m at peace with that. Not because I want to be, but because I have to be.

I’d explore running if it weren’t for the hamstring. And, since I can’t do running I thought about finding myself a 6-day BB split to ensure that this period doesn’t cause me more troubles with my eating habits. I’m currently struggling to justify an appetite without physical activity. But, after glossing over some Meadows and CT stuff but dips and inclines are somewhat staple exercises, and there are a lot of other horizontal press work that wouldn’t mesh with my current shoulder function. I haven’t settled on not exploring this option further, but I don’t feel that I’m in the best frame of mind to be able to adjust any program of theirs.

With regards to general function, I’m happy this isn’t the worst finger injury I’ve experienced thus far. It has been my experience that using the hands without care is a surefire way to feel some pain and suffering. Everyday activities can easily affect the injured tissue. I’ve had teeth-gritting levels of pain from gripping a tea pot the wrong way, snapping the lid onto a lunchbox, lifting the toilet seat with the affected hand, fishing for keys in a pocket, wearing gloves, playing Playstation, typing at the computer, and additional activities still. I’m hoping I won’t have to experience that again this time. The dull, tooth-achy, type pain that accompanies the injury is enough of a hassle.

In the past, with regards to the gym, all I’ve found is that controlled movements are essential. And straps. Depending on which part of the finger is injured, barbells can be really unfriendly, or chin-up bars. This can be mitigated with Fat Gripz as the diameter changes, or rotating the wrist sometimes (trap-bar instead of straight-bar deadlift). Anything can illicit ā€œsymptomsā€, either by loading the injured tissue or just pressing against it meaning that the actual tissue isn’t being loaded.

Anyway, I have a plan, there’s some really exhaustive write-ups on this type of injury. The rehab protocols usually include weeks long hangboarding programs, but curiously if I were to hangboard at that level I’d be a much better climber than I already am so a bit hard to know how to repurpose it for myself. Put on a harness, and rig a pulley system to offload some bodyweight maybe.


Hopefully it is just I that is injury prone and its not the activity that is at fault. I’ve given some thought about how HRT might impact muscle/tendon strength imbalances but haven’t dug into it that much. Or what happens to tendon integrity as T comes down, and E remains up. Won’t go down that rabbit hole as I can’t do anything about it anyway.


Climbing, my dear sir.

For sure!

Loathe them, in the best way.

Yup!

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IDK, extreme isometrics, highly vulnerable positions and high frequency/volume (for those who love and have easy access) don’t exactly sound like a recipe for tendon health

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Yep, good points. I just don’t have a lot of insight into climbing or put much thought into it.

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Colossus could work with some exercise substitutions. But, also, this could be a time to hop up on that assault bike. Generally like the stride that I’m in with 531, so I won’t do this change pre-emptively. If it becomes an issue, then I have a candidate to swap to and I won’t have to figure out a program in a more desperate frame of mind.

Eager to try it again despite my fear of height. Did it for the first time last year indoor, and managed to get at the top (15m?) on 6 routes. I really want to do some again, and especially outdoor!

If I recall, you’re not on HRT right now right? Honestly I doubt the amount of strength gained would have an impact on fingers. The muscles of the forearms responsible for them aren’t super strong, and the tendons are. Anyway, that’s really unlucky…

Colossus is so good…

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We cancelled that experiment until I have a better relationship with food >_<

Noted. Again, making it an ace to play if I need to play it. This approach leaves me more room to work on my relationship with food. A six day split would just be working around the problem rather than working the problem.

To echo a sentiment someone smart wrote in a different log not to long ago. Training isn’t the hard stuff, depending on whom we’re dealing with.

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Edit: I decided to restore this post. It’s genuinely uncomfortable to talk about, so if there are any responses to it I might not immediately engage in a conversation about it. Since there are other people on these forums that deal with similar issues, and just anxiety in general, I hope someone can draw benefit for themselves or someone in their lives from me sharing this.


To expand on yesterday’s topic a little, as I’m currently experiencing a food-related dose of anxiety, the primary driver in my unhealthy relationship with food has become the aversion to going through additional non-consensual ā€œcutsā€.

I don’t have a scientific mapping of all the triggers that add up to trigger such an episode.

Anyway, I find a lot of my anxiety is driven by the fear of finding myself in yet another such episode. My behaviour is somewhat driven by not wanting to go through yet another stint where I willfully do not eat enough to reduce body fat, where my ā€œmotivationā€ becomes so strong that the deficit (activity/calories in) becomes so harsh that I lose muscle too.

A laboured metaphor would be living together with an abusive partner, and walking on egg shells to not draw their ire. And here, in this context, I’m both partners.

These episodes have been more frequent lately. There have been a lot of external stressors recently. Work, sick-leave insurance related stuff, other things I don’t care much to write about. And combined with that, my daily activity has tanked, and I’ve started spending a lot of time with a nice someone having me forego any dietary rules too and that’d be fine in isolation but as far as exposure therapy would be concerned one wouldn’t want to change every variable simultaneously.

The finger injury intrudes on scheduled activity, and is a catch-22 because not eating is an excellent way to not heal.

The sensation is that I’m trapped, but in every objective sense I’m not.

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I’m sorry you’re going through this. If I’m not mistaken, you consistently mention that you’re on a waitlist to start treatment. Any updates on your place in line?

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