I also carry fat in a bit very disadvantageous way. All on the front of my torso. I’m vascular af still. During belt squats, my quads and calves had veins everywhere. Arms and shoulders are really vascular too. But I barely have abs. Just is kinda unfortunate genetics.
I also have to be pretty lean for my face to not look fat, so there is that too.
Fat distribution is one of the least thought about aspects for bodybuilding genetics. Good genetics there allow an individual to bulk much further without looking like crap. Holding fat in the limbs would be so nice for proportions.
Just need to switch from testosterone to estrogen for that.
I’ve got friends that have favorable fat distribution. It’s more like they hold an inch of fat on their arms and legs, and an inch less on their torso.
I dont like the on/off thing. It sounds interesting and would go really well with my training, since i am doing 531 i could like - bulk on the way up and cut when i reset. But i would have to be almost lean already and i could do that more to maintain. I used to do that in my lean years - i was super shredded at around 213, and then id just let go my diet a bit and when i was pushing over 220, especially around like 224-228, i would do 1 week of brutal fasting, 4 hour cardio a day, end it up with a cheatday and be good for a month or so to eat a bit more freely.
The problem i have in a long term with this is that i dont think i can gain muscle if i dont get fat. I was on 1g of test and 1g of tren for 2-3 years. I was on 1-2gs of test for at least 5 years. I was doing like i mentioned before and i think i didnt gain shit ever. Even tho my weight did move up and down, it wasnt like i gained 10lbs and then needed to lose only 8… It was always 213-228 and back to 213. I was living with an impression that i cant gain anything more. I was super lean, my arms were 16.3 inches and i couldnt gain anything.
Now around 15-16 months ago when i decided to blast and bulk like a fat piece of shit, it turns out i can gain muscle after all. My arms went up to almost 18 inches at my fatest, but im sure if id lean out id keep like 17.3 at least.
So basically the problem is that either i need to be fat to gain or i need MORE time in a surpluss to gain.
If i would bulk and cut around my 531 resets, i could only gain very little. But i could maintain leaness, yea. But if i would cut for like 2-4 weeks and then take a 2 week break, i would ONLY make the cutting longer because that 2 week break doesnt do shit for me. So its better to cut hard and then bulk like a pig.
me jelly… i have 100% the genetics of Tyson Fury without his genetics for KO’ing people, lol…
this is so me… skinny everywhere with disgusting love handles. and when i cut, this is what happens always - i lose all the pump from all the muscles, and i look fatter that i did on a bulk.
i can have no fat anywhere on the body but still have love handles… i have some old pics from some classes i teach where in one pic there are veins popping in my legs, in other pic there is a full six pack pushing through my shirt and then a pic from the back where loafs of fat just hang over my shorts.
sorry if i missed it(i didnt read some of the discussion above) - hows your cardio goals doing?
Hank, after reading your post I think there may be something you aren’t considering… When you bulk, you bulk fucking hard man. You talk about shoveling in as much food as you can, which will inevitably lead to putting on fat (as well as muscle). But then you talk about cutting really hard, and don’t like that your muscles are flat during the cut.
Given the gear you’re on, I think it is safe to assume you are nearing your genetic (enhanced) limit and really don’t have too much left to put on muscle-wise. A common complaint from people in this situation (you may or may not fit into this category) is that the cut/bulk cycle does nothing for them because they lose almost as much muscle during the cut as they put on during the bulk. They often fight this with a very small bulk of about 200cal surplus daily so they have, as you said,
Anyways, take it or leave it - but I think this might be what you’re experiencing.
But i do have gained at least 20lbs of muscle in last 18 months imo. Ok, 15lbs to be sure… 10lbs guaranteed even if i lose some while cutting hard But i have gained pretty much on my new low dose approach.
Why? Because i allowed myself to get fat.
Log push press 185 3x8
Chin 5x10
Log strict 160 3x8
Belt squat 455x1 felt a weird pain in the hips and stopped
Incline press 250 3x6
Prowler push 135 down and back
Cardio was brief, but building the habit. Also workout was running long. My wife hates my long workouts. I’d just tough when the weights are heavy. I need that rest.
Had to skip training today to fix my furnace. I thought the flame sensor was dirty so I cleaned that. Was a huge PITA. Just one screw, but I’m the worst possible place. Fired it up and no flame. The LED code indicates time out due to no ignition. I figured that was flame sensor, nope. Digged some more on the Googles. Most people seemed to say flame sensor. Kept digging, and someone mentioned a stuck gas valve. Made sense to me. It’s a solenoid, so I figured a few whacks with the hammer and it might work. That did the trick.
Anyone know if a stuck solenoid will last after it is freed up? Is it just a matter of time? Don’t want to wake up freezing again (last night was -30f here).
Not sure if I’ll train tomorrow. Sleep had been terrible. Might be pushing too hard? I think I’ll train, but do a shortened workout so I’m fresh for bench Friday.
Need more info… I’m assuming it’s spark ignition or is it hot surface? I’m also assuming the spark/HSI ignites the main and not a pilot. Is there an induction fan?
Normal order of operation for a standard effeciency, single stage forced air gas furnace is…
Line (120v) to furnace
120 to 24v step down transformer
24v xfnr leads to control board
24v out on R terminal to tstat
On a call for heat, 24v switched through stat to W
24v back to W terminal on board to heat relay on board
120v to induction fan
24v to safety switches (high limits and rollouts)
Pressure switch closes
Ignition sequence (either spark or HSI) if all safeties closed
Gas valve is supplied 24v from board, opens
Gas lights, flame sensor proves flame
Board constantly monitors flame
Blower relay closes (timer or fan limit switch)
Call for heat satisfied
Gas valve closes
Blower continues operating (timer or fan limit)
Does the furnace fire initially and then cycle off a few seconds after flame is present? If this happens it is more than likely the flame sensor. Check for cracks in the ceramic insulator, if you are grounding the signal it will not register at the board.
If you cycle the furnace off and back on and it immediately codes out without attempting to cycle there could be a few things happening. Voltage could be being supplied to the gas valve before all safety checks have occured or during an off cycle and this would likely indicate a bad board.
If the valve was stuck closed, I would have used a manometer and voltmeter to test the valve. Check valve outlet gas pressure on a call for heat after the ignition sequence has occured. You can hear the solenoid open and will be reading 24v between the two terminals at the valve (assuming this is main ignition and not pilot ignition) and at that point you should read somewhere around 3.5"WC (nat gas). If not, the gas valve is stuck closed.
After going through this and you are certain that gas is not being supplied and 24v is present at valve on a call after safeties are closed, I would replace the valve.
If you have a single stage furnace, they’re cheap and easy the replace. If you have a multistage furnace, or a “specialty” brand, they’ll be more expensive and take some work to set up.
If you replace the valve, you need to check outlet gas pressure and make sure it’s within range specified by the manufacturer. Overfiring the furnace can cause overheating in the heat exchanger and limit trips (among other issues), both are not good as they lead to premature failure of important components and potentially safety issues.
lol hey man, I just wanted to be thorough. I hate throwing parts at equipment hoping to fix it. If you want to be sure you’re doing the right thing, you have to do all the necessary checks, especially when we’re talking about natural gas. Too many times I’ve seen guys replace $600 worth in parts over a dirty filter or a bird stuck in a fan wheel. Or replace a gas valve and totally destroy a furnace, and worse.
Also, if I give him advice and he fires up his furnace, blasting crazy pressure into it and it ends up melting shit, that’s kind of on me.
Edit: also, not sure if you’re serious or not. I’m just trying to help
@mnben87 this is all assuming you’re comfortable around this stuff. My guess is that you are, due to taking a hammer to a gas valve. I’d recommend getting a pro out there, but I know it’s expensive and you possibly could be waiting a while.
Bro I’m Totally just kidding with you! I was super stoked to see you able to jump in and help. As a fellow skilled trades worker I get a hard on for this kinda knowledge.
I love it! I’ll run though your list. I was thinking of testing the solenoid. I did clean the flame sensor and it looked good overall. I’m just sorta thinking it’s the valve because giving it a few gentle hits was what got it working.
Haha dude. I was pretty sure you were kidding but it’s very difficult to pick up on sarcasm just reading text. I thought you hated my guts for a minute lol.
Hahahaha nooo!!! Couldn’t be more proud to see a dude I really like help another dude I really like and get to flex that skill/knowledge at the same time!
But i have gained pretty much on my new low dose approach.