10 Miles Back Again

I actually haven’t bouldered much outside compared to trad/sport climbing. Bouldering inside is fun and makes you strong. Experience on real rock is needed to translate the strength gained from climbing indoors. I have taken many younger climbers who much stronger than me when climbing indoors. I’m always surprised at how badly they do outside. They have the potential but lack the experience. Many of them get frustrated and shy away from climbing outside. Like many of us they stick to their strengths. I think it helped that I started outside and only later found indoor climbing. Bottomline is you just have to get out there and get the experience and have fun along the way.

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Appreciate your time.

I find as soon as i get outside, i seem to forget how to climb and overgrip everything. I’m getting better with time though

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Work for today:

Leg curls

Squats:
3 x 3 @ 90kg

Press:
5 x 3 @ 55kg

Bench:
Worked up to 90kg x 3

Notes:

  • Squats moved really well, leg curls first seem to have really solved the knee issues
  • Press moved stupidly well, but also hurt my neck a lot. I can do things to loosen it up, but its not great.
  • Bench was way off program anyway, so decided to go for a more accurate max test. That was a pretty close to max effort triple on a bad day, on the rubbish bench. I start a new cycle on the other lifts next week, so will use this for that.
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Work for today:

2 hours climbing

Cut short because i fell badly and may have a broken ankle. Just waiting on an X-ray now.

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not hitting like. sorry to read this. best wishes on x-ray results.

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Appreciate the support mate

Just a bad sprain, apparently. The doctor claims a 6-8 week recovery, which is obviously crazy, but there will definitely be some big adjustments needed. I can’t see me climbing or doing any standing lifts soon, and driving is probably out for a few days.

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Liking for the fact it’s not a break. Hope the recovery goes well

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Question to put out there:

I’m expecting to be out of any hard training for at least a week, potentially longer. Is this a good time to really hit fat loss hard? Or is combining no hard training, rock bottom NEPA and super low calories a recipe for disaster?

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I won’t be any help here, but I’m super-interested in responses—that’s exactly what my next week or so looks like, too!

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Good to see you man, have you injured yourself? Had a quick scan through your log but couldn’t see anything.

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You too, mate! No, not injured, but I’m traveling to chair a conference in Copenhagen, with no gym access and even less time. @simo74 pointed out there’s always time for push-ups—curse him—but mostly I’ll be sitting around in a darkened lecture hall or running around worrying if there’s enough orange juice… Good times.

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I forgot about your sprain, @dagill2—my apologies. Given that, I agree with this:

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@throwawayfitness appreciate the advice, i’ll keep my calories sensible

@SvenG there’s always time for burpees!!

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Anyone have any thoughts on a 2/3 day a week program that doesn’t involve standing up?

I don’t know of a specific programme but I tore my ACL about 10 years ago and had to follow a restrictive programme. If I remember correctly I think i did dedicated push and pull days (obviously anything involving legs was out the question) and just went machine based for a few weeks. You could do full body machine and superset push and pull depending on when you can get to the gym.

With regards to your question about fat loss etc I’d say eat a slight surplus if anything to help recovery but that’s just my opinion.

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Work for today:
Bench:
5 x 5 @ 75kg

Incline Smith Bench:
3 x 12

Curls:
Some

Also did lots of playing around with other exercises to figure out what hurts and what doesn’t, but nothing that could even vaguely count as a work set.

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Heaps of exercises you can do seated or laying down that don’t involve the ankle, you could even just do a machine only block. Just set up a simple program with alternating A/B workouts. 4-6 exercises per session. Slightly lower reps (6-8) with your compound movements like bench press or shoulder press, higher reps for everything else 12-15, use Double progression method, increase reps and then weight. progress every session.

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Have you considered simply not being such a giant pussy?

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Not sure that applies here, pussys are useful.

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@simo74 it’s not been too difficult to knock together a plan, to be honest. Especially as i’m only expecting to need it for about 3-6 weeks max. I can still bench and curl, and do i really need to do anything else?

@Cyrrex i’ve been telling my ankle that for days

Work for today:
Pull ups: lots

Didn’t count, it was a 30mins podcasts worth. Will probably repeat later.

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