March 8, 2025
Lisa and I took a trip to Pittsburgh to celebrate our anniversary. 38 years. Friday we visited Botanical Gardens and did some shopping. I had a couple of beers.
Saturday I visited Iron City Climbing Gym. I climbed for 3.5 hours. Sent many V4s and V5s. These seemed relatively easy. I got on about 5 V6s and sent 2 with quite a bit of effort. V6 is where things start getting hard for me (at least in a climbing gym).
March 9, 2025
WARM UPS
Prone Alternating Y-T Raises 20 reps (2 sets)
Heel Sit Neck Nods + Turns: 10 each
Hip Internal Rotation Twists 10 each side
Jane Fonda’s & DNS Star Pattern 15/10
Thoracic Spine Extension with Foam Roller
Banded Ankle MOB
Spiderman Lunge: 8 ea
Toe Touch Squat to Stand: 8
5 Goblet Squat/Bulgarian Goat Bag Swings 25, 30, 40#
Neutral Grip Pull ups x 5 reps 0, 10, 0#
KB Windmill 5 each side @ 35, 35, 35#
Shoulder Mobilization Routine
-20 Pronated Band Pull Aparts
-5 band dislocates
-Cable Face Pulls x 10 reps 35#
10 pronators each arm
3 rounds
5 sets of:
5 Goblet Squats 60#
5 DB Romanian Single Leg Deadlifts each leg 50#
60 seconds
5 KB Floor Presses 53#
60 seconds
5 KB Rows each arm 53#
60 seconds
Torque Fitness M1 Sled (Forward length of sidewalk + Backwards length of sidewalk)
3 rounds
4:49
Nice to do these again.
Reverse Hyper x 15 reps 120# (2 sets)
Supported Cossack Squat
Toe Touches
Reclined Hero Pose 2 minutes
External Rotations for shoulder
Shoulder feeling better. I’ll have to be super careful.
March 10, 2025
Prone Alternating Y-T Raises 20 reps (2 sets)
Supine Breathing: 10
Heel Sit Neck Nods + Turns: 8/4ea
Hip Internal Rotation Twists 10 each side
Monster Walks
Thoracic Spine Extension with Foam Roller
Banded Ankle MOB
Spiderman Lunge: 4ea
Toe Touch Squat to Stand: 8
Norwegian 4×4 training method
Rogue Echo Bike
4 minute warm up 50, 55, 60, 65 rpm 141 bpm
3 minute rest
4 minutes working up to 90% of maximum heart rate 149 63 rpm
3 minutes of active rest
4 minutes working up to 90% of maximum heart rate 151 63 rpm
3 minutes of active rest
4 minutes working up to 90% of maximum heart rate 150 63 rpm
3 minutes of active rest
4 minutes working up to 90% of maximum heart rate 151 63 rpm
3 minute cool down (easy walking)
Felt hard tonight.
Reclined Hero Pose
Toe Touchs
Cossack Squats
Deep Squat Hold
Tuesday, March 11, 2025
Climbed in the Shed.
4 problems
10 push ups
10 band pull aparts
10 second hang on an edge 25, 20, 15 mm edge
10 pronators each arm
3 rounds
Hangboard Training
6 sets of 10 seconds on a 20 mm edge. On the 3 minutes.
+15, 20, 25, 30, 35 (4 sec), 35 (6 sec)
Worked in:
7 sets of 10 push ups
7 sets of 10 band pull aparts
5 sets of 5 ab wheel roll outs.
March 13, 2025
WARM UPS
Prone Alternating Y-T Raises 20 reps (2 sets)
Supine Breathing:
10 Heel Sit Neck Nods + Turns: 8/4ea
Hip Internal Rotation Twists 10 each side
10 DNS Star Pattern
Thoracic Spine Extension with Foam Roller
Banded Ankle MOB
Spiderman Lunge: 8 ea
Toe Touch Squat to Stand: 8
Turkish Gets 1 each side @ 35, 44, 53, 62, 62, 53, 44, 35
Worked in:
3 Sets: 15 Banded Finger Extensions
1-2-3-4 neutral grip pull ups
March 15, 2025
Climbed at Rock Mill with Randy, Kent, Brad and Justin. I did all the new purples, one new blue, three new oranges, and one new white. Pretty good day even though I couldn’t do 3 of the new blues.
Later in the afternoon;
Zone 2 Treadmill Walk
45 minutes at 3.5 mph at 12% incline.
Avg HR 121
Max HR 130
March 16, 2025
WARM UPS
Prone Alternating Y-T Raises 20 reps (2 sets)
Heel Sit Neck Nods + Turns: 10 each
Hip Internal Rotation Twists 10 each side
Jane Fonda’s & DNS Star Pattern 15/10
Thoracic Spine Extension with Foam Roller
Banded Ankle MOB
Spiderman Lunge: 8 ea
Toe Touch Squat to Stand: 8
5 Goblet Squat/Bulgarian Goat Bag Swings 25, 30, 40#
Neutral Grip Pull ups x 5 reps 0, 10, 20#
KB Windmill 5 each side @ 35, 35, 44#
Shoulder Mobilization Routine
-20 Pronated Band Pull Aparts
-10 band dislocates
-Cable Face Pulls x 10 reps 35#
10 pronators each arm
3 rounds
Freedom units:) It is a planned program I got off the internet. I’ve used a variety of plans throughout the years. I really like Steve Bechtel’s ladder training. The fingers aren’t nearly as strong as they used to be. Now I’m trying g to maintain strength without injuring myself.
I’ll check the program out. When i feel i have the recovery to cope with additional finger training, i just try and do basic linear progression stuff, but i feel like there’s definitely smarter ways to do it. Not sure 531 for fingers is a valid option.
Edit:
I’ve had a look at the ladders program and it looks super time consuming. Do you think limiting it to just one grip type would allow it to be as effective? Especially for lazy boys like me who almost exclusively use half crimp for finger intensive climbs
The way I do the ladder program takes 27, 36, and 45 minutes depending on what week I’m in. I just do all hangs on the minute. For example:
Hangboard Ladder Training
Week 1, Workout 1 Every 60 seconds
Grindstone Tension 3 sets 3-6-9 sec 15 mm +10#
2 finger pocket Green RP Forge 3 sets 3-6-9 -35#
Slopey Crimper on Green RP Forge 3 sets of 3-6-9 -20#
27 total sets for a total of 27 minutes.
I usually warm up by doing several boulder problems and push ups.
Climbing Trip RRG
March 17-19
Climbing trip with Lisa, Randy, Nick, and Sarah.
Monday, March 17, 2025
A-Beano 5.8
CH4 5.7
Hey There, Fancy Pants 5.10c (2nd go)
Jungle Trundler 5.11a (flash)
Expresso 5.12a (redpoint, several attempts)
Tuesday, March 18, 2025
Murano 5.10b/c (onsight)
27 Years of Climbing 5.8 (flash)
The Preacher’s Daughter 11a (Flash) Favorite climb from the trip
A Brief History of Climb 5.10b (onsight)
Wednesday, March 19, 2025
Return of Manimal 5.10d (flash)
Workin’ For The Weekend 5.10c (flash)
March 20, 2025
WARM UPS
Prone Alternating Y-T Raises 20 reps (2 sets)
Supine Breathing: 10
Heel Sit Neck Nods + Turns: 8/4ea
Hip Internal Rotation Twists 10 each side
10 DNS Star Pattern
Thoracic Spine Extension with Foam Roller
Banded Ankle MOB
Spiderman Lunge: 8 ea
Toe Touch Squat to Stand: 8
Turkish Gets
2 each side @ 35, 44, 53, 62#
Worked in:
3 Sets: 15 Banded Finger Extensions
2 sets of 20 Flexbar Wrist Extensions
1-2-3-4 neutral grip pull ups
Appreciate that level of detail. I’ll have a think about whether i can commit to that kind of time on days that won’t impact my climbing days. I will admit i’m getting bored at having plateaued and getting stringer fingers seems infinitely preferable to pravticing technique or losing weight.
I can push to 3 a week, if the rest of my recovery is on point, but it also depends what style of climbing i’m doing, whether i count that as a session or not.
March 21, 2025
Prone Alternating Y-T Raises 20 reps (2 sets)
Supine Breathing: 10
Heel Sit Neck Nods + Turns: 8/4ea
Hip Internal Rotation Twists 10 each side
Monster Walks
Thoracic Spine Extension with Foam Roller
Banded Ankle MOB
Spiderman Lunge: 4ea
Toe Touch Squat to Stand: 8
Worked in 25, 25, 50, 50 singles jump rope
Norwegian 4×4 training method
Rogue Echo Bike
4 minute warm up 50, 55, 60, 65 rpm 140 bpm
3 minute rest
4 minutes working up to 90% of maximum heart rate 149 63 rpm
3 minutes of active rest
4 minutes working up to 90% of maximum heart rate 150 63 rpm
3 minutes of active rest
4 minutes working up to 90% of maximum heart rate 151 63 rpm
3 minutes of active rest
4 minutes working up to 90% of maximum heart rate 150 63 rpm
3 minute cool down (easy walking)
Felt hard. Always mentally challenging. I suppose that’s a good thing. Do hard things.
Reclined Hero Pose
Toe Touchs
Cossack Squat stretch
March 22, 2025
Climbed at Rock Mill with Randy, Kent, and Ross. I did all the new purples, two new blues, two new oranges, and two new whites. Pretty good day.
March 23, 2025
WARM UPS
Prone Alternating Y-T Raises 20 reps (2 sets)
Heel Sit Neck Nods + Turns: 10 each
Hip Internal Rotation Twists 10 each side
Jane Fonda’s & DNS Star Pattern 15/10
Thoracic Spine Extension with Foam Roller
Banded Ankle MOB
Spiderman Lunge: 8 ea
Toe Touch Squat to Stand: 8
5 Goblet Squat/Bulgarian Goat Bag Swings 25, 30, 40#
Neutral Grip Pull ups x 5 reps 0, 10, 20#
KB Windmill 5 each side @ 35, 35, 44#
Shoulder Mobilization Routine
-20 Pronated Band Pull Aparts
-10 band dislocates
-Cable Face Pulls x 10 reps 35#
10 pronators each arm
3 rounds
2-3-5-2-3-5-2-3
Double KB Front Squats 35# KBs
Trapbar Romanian Deadlift 185
60 seconds
Dips
60 seconds
ring pull ups
60 seconds
Reverse Hyper x 15 reps 120# (2 sets)
Supported Cossack Squat
Reclined Hero Pose 2 minutes
Toe Touch
Deep squat hold
March 24, 2025
WARM UPS
Prone Alternating Y-T Raises 20 reps (2 sets)
Heel Sit Neck Nods + Turns: 10 each
Hip Internal Rotation Twists 10 each side
Jane Fonda’s & DNS Star Pattern 15/10
Thoracic Spine Extension with Foam Roller
Banded Ankle MOB
Spiderman Lunge: 8 ea
Toe Touch Squat to Stand: 8
Warm up 1 minute @ 60, rest one minute, 1 minute @ 65
The 1-Minute On, 1-Minute Off Interval Training Protocol
Rogue Echo Bike 24 minutes
March 25, 2025
3 problems
Push ups 10, 15, 15 reps
15, 20, 15 Band Pull aparts
10 second finger hang 25 mm, 20 mm, 15 mm
10 pronators each arm
3 rounds
Hangboard Ladder Training
Week 1, Workout 1 Every 60 seconds
Closed Crimp 3 sets of 3-6-9 -35#
Worked in:
6 additional sets of 10 push ups
5 sets of 10 band pull aparts
5 sets of 5 Ab Wheel Roll Outs
Deep squat holds
March 26, 2025
WARM UPS
Prone Alternating Y-T Raises 20 reps (2 sets)
Supine Breathing: 10
Heel Sit Neck Nods + Turns: 8/4ea
Hip Internal Rotation Twists 10 each side
10 DNS Star Pattern
Thoracic Spine Extension with Foam Roller
Banded Ankle MOB
Spiderman Lunge: 8 ea
Toe Touch Squat to Stand: 8
Turkish Gets
2 each side @ 35, 44, 53, 62#
Worked in:
3 Sets: 15 Banded Finger Extensions
3 sets of 20 Flexbar Wrist Extensions
1-2-3-4 neutral grip pull ups
March 29, 2025
Climbed at Rock Mill with Randy, Kent, and Ross. I did all the new purples, one new blues and one new orange. Worked several other problems. Finished by climbing all the purples.
In the Afternoon
Zone 2 Outside Bicycle Ride
New London-Greenwich Rail Trail (out and back)
15.11 miles
1:20:06
Average Heart rate: 126 Max Heart Rate: 141
Slower than usual but the trail was damp and muddy in places. Nice to grind it out.
Ice bath for 1 minute at 50 degrees afterwards.
March 30, 2025
WARM UPS
Prone Alternating Y-T Raises 20 reps (2 sets)
Heel Sit Neck Nods + Turns: 10 each
Hip Internal Rotation Twists 10 each side
Jane Fonda’s & DNS Star Pattern 15/10
Thoracic Spine Extension with Foam Roller
Banded Ankle MOB
Spiderman Lunge: 8 ea
Toe Touch Squat to Stand: 8
5 Goblet Squat/Bulgarian Goat Bag Swings 25, 30, 40#
Neutral Grip Pull ups x 5 reps 0, 10, 20#
KB Windmill 5 each side @ 35, 35, 44#
Shoulder Mobilization Routine
-20 Pronated Band Pull Aparts
-10 band dislocates
-Cable Face Pulls x 10 reps 35#
10 pronators each arm
3 rounds
8 rounds:
3 Double KB Front Squats 35# KBs
3 Trapbar Romanian Deadlift 185
60 seconds
3 Dips
60 seconds
3 ring pull ups +10#
60 seconds
Supported Cossack Squat
Reclined Hero Pose 2 minutes
Toe Touch
Deep squat hold
1 ring muscle up
Worked in:
5 additional sets of 10 push ups
5 sets of 10 band pull aparts
5 sets of 5 Ab Wheel Roll Outs
Deep squat holds
April 2, 2025
WARM UPS
Prone Alternating Y-T Raises 20 reps (2 sets)
Supine Breathing: 10
Heel Sit Neck Nods + Turns: 8/4ea
Hip Internal Rotation Twists 10 each side
10 DNS Star Pattern
Thoracic Spine Extension with Foam Roller
Banded Ankle MOB
Spiderman Lunge: 8 ea
Toe Touch Squat to Stand: 8
Turkish Gets
2 each side @ 35, 44, 53, 62#
Worked in:
3 Sets: 15 Banded Finger Extensions
2 sets of 20 Flexbar Wrist Extensions
1-2-3-4 neutral grip pull ups
