Survivalist Gear

[quote]SexMachine wrote:
BTW - Anyone got an opinion on “battoning” with a knife? I was always taught battoning will ruin your knife so I’ve never done it. But some folk say that the heavy duty, full tang, carbon steel knives are strong enough to use for battoning without damaging your knife.

For those who don’t know, “battoning” is where you place your blade atop a piece of wood you want to split. You then get a second piece of wood and use it to bang the back of the knife to direct a lot of kinetic energy on the blade splitting the wood. A bit hard to explain. Here’s a video of a guy battoning:

Sorry for the corny video. Anyway, that’s battoning. I was always taught it’s a big no no and will fuck your knife up. Any thoughts?

I do know that the back of an axe head is soft and hitting the back of an axe head will fuck it up. Any thoughts on battoning with a knife?[/quote]

Any bushcraft knife should be able to handle battoning with no problem. Only use wood to strike the blade.

Pocket fisherman


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As a small hobby I have been working on making my own bushcraft knife. I made the blade by stock removal, and I did the micarta myself. Not even close to a finished product. Just a rough first draft.

I am about to start on a new blade. This handle is to short, and the handles didn’t turn out like I wanted. I am going to use a lawnmower blade for the blade and a brighter orange in the handle.

[quote]SexMachine wrote:
BTW - Anyone got an opinion on “battoning” with a knife? I was always taught battoning will ruin your knife so I’ve never done it. But some folk say that the heavy duty, full tang, carbon steel knives are strong enough to use for battoning without damaging your knife.

For those who don’t know, “battoning” is where you place your blade atop a piece of wood you want to split. You then get a second piece of wood and use it to bang the back of the knife to direct a lot of kinetic energy on the blade splitting the wood. A bit hard to explain. Here’s a video of a guy battoning:

Sorry for the corny video. Anyway, that’s battoning. I was always taught it’s a big no no and will fuck your knife up. Any thoughts?

I do know that the back of an axe head is soft and hitting the back of an axe head will fuck it up. Any thoughts on battoning with a knife?[/quote]

I’ve beaten the ever-loving piss out of my KA-BAR model 1213 (Straight Edge, no serrations, 7" blade, synthetic grip) doing exactly that.

http://www.kabar.com/knives/detail/26

I’ve done this for no reason besides the joy of using my KA-BAR for that purpose on backpacking trips, and it has held up FINE.

It doesn’t work anywhere near as well as an axe, but it gets the job done. I think their large heavy Bowie knife would do even better, as it is not saber ground and seems like the shape would lend itself better to batoning. It is on my wish list.

http://www.kabar.com/knives/detail/153

Batoning ruins the finish much faster than most other forms of wear-and-tear, but the blade itself has held up just fine. I think 1095 is a fine utility steel for hard and heavy field use. It sharpens right back up for me and I’m far from an expert on sharpening.

[quote]Varqanir wrote:
Angry Chicken, after reading your last post, I put on my boonie hat specifically so that I could take it off to you. That, sir, is a superlatively enviable setup.
[/quote]

Thank you, but it’s FAR from complete. The deeper you go down the rabbit hole, the more one realizes how vulnerable we really are. My next “areas” to develop/countermeasure are night vision/thermal IR and secure communications. Right now “the man” owns the night and the airwaves… I don’t really like them having that advantage.

I’m working on my HAM license right now (actually, I just need to nut up and take a day off to take the test LOL). I want to incorporate my Solar/DC/inverter set up to power my “shack” completely off the grid. Then I’m looking at more portable longer range comms that don’t weigh that much. I already have a group secure comms solution, but nothing yet for long range. I have a scanner that I use sometimes, but I need to put in the time with it and really understand it better than I currently do. I gotta take one apart and fuck with it.

I’m a certified level II Thermographer (Part of my job is to take a thermal camera and scan the electrical equipment in my facility for hot spots to do predictive maintenance - I find it and fix it before it fails). So I’ve been playing around with ways to defeat thermal cameras. Using space blankets, tarps and Burlap, I’ve been able to break up a heat signature pretty effectively. I’ve got a pretty good “thermal blind” set up, but I’m still working on something more mobile/less bulky. Perhaps a mobile shield that one could tactically advance behind or a “ghillie” suit with a mylar liner. Still have to play with it. The issue is that there has to be separation from the mylar and the skin for the heat to dissipate enough. But once I figure it out, thermal invisibility will be pretty cool to have and increase my options against an opponent with those capabilities.

Coat one side of the mylar with a viscoelastic polyurethane foam. It might get a mite sweaty under there, but you would achieve both separation and additional insulation.

Wondering about fuels: are your vehicles and generators diesel? Are you set up to manufacture your own biodiesel and/or ethanol? The great thing about the diesel engine is that with the right filtration systems, it will run on practically any liquid hydrocarbon. An old Mercedes-Benz turbo diesel engine from the 1990s can be made to run on used motor oil, or transmission fluid, or used french fry oil from fucking Burger King.

In a true Mad Max-style breakdown of society, when even Burger King would have stopped frying potatoes (the horror), one could hypothetically run one’s vehicle on the oil that one could harvest from high-voltage transformers on the “grid” that everyone would by that time be off of (it would hypothetically involve shooting the hypothetical transformer with a hypothetical .22 rifle, then catching the dripping hypothetical oil. Note that I do not actually advocate this hypothetical course of action, you fucking NSA fucks).

Ahem.

Which brings me to the question I’m sure that you, as a Union Electrician who shits gold and pisses money, are surely qualified to answer: how concerned are you about weaponised electromagnetic pulses, and do you have any countermeasures in place to protect your electronics?

[quote]Varqanir wrote:
Coat one side of the mylar with a viscoelastic polyurethane foam. It might get a mite sweaty under there, but you would achieve both separation and additional insulation.
[/quote]That’s what I was thinking - some kind of foam. Thanks! I’ll check that out.[quote]

Wondering about fuels: are your vehicles and generators diesel? Are you set up to manufacture your own biodiesel and/or ethanol? The great thing about the diesel engine is that with the right filtration systems, it will run on practically any liquid hydrocarbon. An old Mercedes-Benz turbo diesel engine from the 1990s can be made to run on used motor oil, or transmission fluid, or used french fry oil from fucking Burger King.
[/quote]That evolution will take place in the next year or so. It’s on the list. My ultimate plan for a generator is a little bit unconventional: a portable lighting engine (like one would use for temporary jobsite lighting or side of the road work). It’s a three cylinder diesel, 50 gallon tank that’s designed to run for over 200 hours kicking out 60A at 480v. It’s better and cheaper than any generator you’ll buy commercially. As for my vehicles, I’m making the switch soon, but haven’t yet. I have a few other toys I need to buy first. [quote]

In a true Mad Max-style breakdown of society, when even Burger King would have stopped frying potatoes (the horror), one could hypothetically run one’s vehicle on the oil that one could harvest from high-voltage transformers on the “grid” that everyone would by that time be off of (it would hypothetically involve shooting the hypothetical transformer with a hypothetical .22 rifle, then catching the dripping hypothetical oil. Note that I do not actually advocate this hypothetical course of action, you fucking NSA fucks).
[/quote] One can also grow various plants (sunflower and pumpkin seeds are easiest) and press the oil yourself once the transformers are dry.[quote]
Ahem.

Which brings me to the question I’m sure that you, as a Union Electrician who shits gold and pisses money, are surely qualified to answer: how concerned are you about weaponised electromagnetic pulses, and do you have any countermeasures in place to protect your electronics?

[/quote]

EMP is high on my threat list because it has three potential sources:1 it can be an actual EMP attack, 2 it can occur naturally from a solar event and 3 is a natural side effect of a nuclear detonation. So yeah, I’ve taken some precautions, but it’s impossible to protect all of your electronics. There wont be time. I’ve chosen to go “low tech” with just about everything I intend to rely on. But having said that, an electronic library is far easier to manage than printing gigs and gigs of all the material I have - everything from Mozart, Dickens and other classics of music and literature to various technical manuals and survival related archives…

An EMP will affect inductive loads and capacitive loads, but not resistive loads - pretty much everything with a circuit board, inductive coils or capacitors (electronic ballasts for lighting, solenoids in heat pumps, capacitors for electric start motors and single phase motors depending on capacitors for a phase angle shift, etc…). But SIMPLE resistive loads, such as circuits feeding regular light bulbs, space heaters, ovens, etc… should not be affected to badly. The pulse might blow the light bulbs connected to a circuit because the over current protection probably won’t open up in time, but the circuit itself will remain undamaged - you can just replace the light bulbs/fuses (you have spares, right?). For other simple equipment, the controls might be fried, but those can be easily bypassed and primary function restored. So my advice is to go as low tech as possible if you plan on depending on it. K.I.S.S. is something that has served me well in pretty much every activity that I enjoy, from sailing, to camping to work. I’m pretty much an analog man in a digital world at heart.

Having said that, I do have a Faraday cage that I’ve rigged up in the garage out of an old beer fridge where I keep my digital library. In it, I keep a few extra inverters (my solar panels and deep cycle batteries will survive an EMP just fine, the inverter, not so much) , two old IBM laptops, several digital hard drives each wrapped individually with copper and grounded to the internal frame of the cage (external windings are separate from internal windings with a TTR of 1:6 to reduce/dissipate the current of a pulse more efficiently) and I’ve got the whole thing grounded and bonded to it’s own ground rod connected by copper bus. Yeah, I geeked out on it, but it was fun. I’m going to build another one soon to house some of my HAM equipment. I don’t bother to put any of my GPS equipment in there because I don’t think the satellites will be either A, be functioning, or B be available for citizens to use in the event of something serious.

Magnetism is a very interesting topic to me and I’m a bit of a nerd when it comes to that stuff, so sorry for the long post.

EDIT: oh, and one minor correction: Union electricians eat molten lava, shit gold and piss PERFECTION! LOL

[quote]mbdix wrote:
As a small hobby I have been working on making my own bushcraft knife. I made the blade by stock removal, and I did the micarta myself. Not even close to a finished product. Just a rough first draft.[/quote]

Good stuff. I heard the extra thick blades are going out of style with the bushcraft community. A lot of knives are clearly “overbuilt” - I’ve seen one with a 10mm blade! Anyway, I’ve got the L T Wright Genesis which is a great bushcraft knife. The blade is 1/8th inch which is a bit under 3.2mm. It’s also 02 tool steel which is unusual. As you know most bushcraft knife makers prefer 01 tool steel.

I think generators are a complete waste of time unless they are used to top off a battery system. It’s simply unrealistic to think you’ll be able to store enough fuel to run everything from your generator long term. Even if you cut down on what you are using, each hour that generator runs you are literally WASTING potential power - you are throwing fuel away.

The smart way to approach off grid power is through a battery system. Deep cycle 6v batteries wired series/parallel to achieve 12v with however many amp hours you expect to consume TIMES 4. That way, you never discharge deeper than 75% and your batteries will last for years if not decades. Your batteries will run a 12v DC lighting system, 12v DC electronics (that’s what a lot of your stuff runs on anyway, those thick plug adapters step things down to ~12vDC) and an inverter set up that will allow you to run your 110v equipment as needed.

Your system should be charged via solar, bike, and wind power generators, backed up by a diesel gen set that is run once or twice a week for a half hour to top everything off to 100%. This set up is FAR more efficient and will allow your fuel to last far longer than any other system.

For off grid electricity, turn your home into a “sailboat”. The same technology used by offshore cruisers is a perfectly valid solution in a far less hostile environment (i.e. not saltwater). 12v lighting, refrigeration and heat exchange (compressors), will work very well for an off grid solution. Isolate your critical power with separate UPS back up with transfer switches to your generator in case you have to bypass your DC system for maintenance. It’s actually pretty economical too.

The main thing you can do to ensure up time, is that a legitimate maintenance schedule is followed regularly and you fix things before they break. It’s really not that complicated to go “off the grid” if you have to.


Any thoughts on fresh water supply? I’ve read about and have a few filtration systems. One of my systems can microfilter 50 gallons per filter but tablets can be a lighter, quicker short term option. The ones I use are “potable aqua” tablets that come in a little, brown glass bottle:

http://www.amazon.com/Potable-Aqua-Water-Treatment-Tablets/dp/B00PNB9138

I use spent shotgun shell casings to house mini “kits” and a 12 gauge shell can hold over 100 “potable aqua” tablets with some cotton on top to keep them fresh or use as tinder. Spent shotgun shells can be used to make a whole selection of mini kits like a sewing/stitching kit, a fishing tackle mini kit, a fire starting kit, water purification kit etc. I guess they would be handy in a bandoleer but I just keep a few around that I put in my first aid kit, leather pouch or a pocket in my main bag.

Attached is a photo of a couple of every day knives I use when camping:

  • A Mora “Morakniv adventure” standard model; made in Sweden, high carbon steel, scandi grind. It’s got some stains on it that I haven’t cleaned off yet. Resin from tree sap. To clean I make a slurry with a King Nagura stone and a little water and just polish it off. Nagura stones have an extremely fine grit - so fine it’s used to get that mirror polish on blades. The Mora is a well known standard benchmark for survival/bushcraft knives. They’re used a lot by militaries, paramedics etc. They make a paramedic version with a fluorescent handle. If you don’t have much money to spend on a multipurpose, quality knife the Mora is a good option at roughly $30. Having said that, there are other good options like the Condor I mentioned.

  • The last rusty blade is a higonokami. These blades are amazing. They’re made by a a few competing companies that have been around for centuries. Higonokami blades are basically an extremely sharp, thick hand folded and hammered forged high carbon steel folding tanto blade. They usually come in display boxes and have the maker’s name on the handle. Here’s one of the better mass produced ones on ebay:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/221629516208?nav=SEARCH

They range in price from $10 to $150. You can get a good one really cheap. The one in the link has a brass handle. They come in a huge range of different styles and materials. I prefer the traditional ones. My one is absolutely covered in rust at the moment because it’s made from Japanese steel with an extremely high carbon level. It has a blackish or bluish look normally. Hitachi makes some of the best Japanese high carbon steel for edged tools and weapons.

Some time in the future I’ll post another pic of my Higonokami after I’ve cleaned it up, polished and oiled it with Camellia oil. It will look brand new.

  • The middle knife is just a Linder Champ 1. It has a nice stag handled, 5mm tapered blade with a sharp 90 degree angle to the back of the blade so you can use it to shave bark off a stick or strike a fero rod or whatever. It came out of the box so sharp you could cut a hair with it. A nice finger guard and red fibre spacer between the handle and the blade.

The knives are on a nice sheepskin vest I mentioned before that I always take with me for cold nights. I’ve been meaning to sew a couple of wooden toggles on it with leather strips or loops to hold the vest closed around myself.

So this is where all the nut jobs hang out. :slight_smile:

[quote]LankyMofo wrote:
So this is where all the nut jobs hang out. :)[/quote]

I’m just following the Scout’s motto: be prepared.


Mora knives of Sweden are great and they have a huge range. Pictured is the survivalist adventure knife. The handle is fluorescent orange and the blade is 3.2mm high carbon with a scandi grind. The bevel is about 10mm wide and there’s not a lot of curve to the blade so it’s dead easy to sharpen so long as you know how. The sheath comes with a diamond sharpening stone on one side and a fero fire rod on the other. Give a fero rod a grind and shower of 3000 degree sparks are produced. I keep different types of tinder in a little tin and they all light instantly with a fero rod.

Here’s just a sample of some of Mora’s bushcraft adventure range:

http://www.moraofsweden.se/products/adventure

I don’t like the look of the axe. The Laplander 90 looks like a nice little skinning knife though.

Hey AC, if you don’t mind sharing, what would be the required reading for your EMP set-up, like to build and understand?

[quote]LankyMofo wrote:
So this is where all the nut jobs hang out. :)[/quote]
Yo Lanky what up.

[quote]MattyG35 wrote:
Hey AC, if you don’t mind sharing, what would be the required reading for your EMP set-up, like to build and understand?[/quote]

You can look online for basic designs and theories about a Faraday cage. What did, was use my understanding and knowledge about how transformers use magnetism and different coil ratios to alter magnetic fields and excite electrons in other coils, as well as my knowledge on grounding and bonding to build something that I believe will take the energy from an EMP, reduce it’s wavelength, diminish it’s power through hysteresis loss and channel that energy to ground (away from my electronic devices) by bonding the internal windings to a very large conductor and the “mini cocoons” surrounding my devices with a smaller conductor. It’s just Ohms law - I basically created a “safe haven” of high impedance while providing a very low resistive pathway for the remaining energy which was converted to a more manageable current by use of a different winding ratio and conductor size.

I didn’t read anything about this design, I kinda came up with it on my own. I understand where the electrons want to go, so I gave them a way to get there AWAY from my stuff.

Ok, that makes sense.

[quote]furo wrote:
This is a really cool thread. What do you guys think of folding saws? I have two - both the same design - which were recommended by Ray Mears (although unlike the bushcraft knife, were very inexpensive). I’ve never been on a real expedition, but they have been great on camping trips and long hikes - really effective for making a shelter. Besides them I just have stuff already mentioned in this thread (torch, slingshot and various knives etc). I also have a lot of heavy duty water bottles and keep a 5L container of drinking water in my car (unconventional for the west coast of Scotland lol). [/quote]

Folding saws are great when camping. They’ve been very, very helpful. Small hatchets too, although I’m never willing to sacrifice the weight to carry them.