That’s a really smart choice that I never would have considered.
I will say however, if your tendon isn’t getting any better even after trying out some new stuff, it may be time to reduce climbing volume by 40-60%, and then slowly build back up, adding 5-10% more volume back, every 1-2 weeks. Load management is the primary strategy for tendinopathy
I know it’s tempting to compare your self to others - I do it all the time as well - but an “average” training load is meaningless. It’s the same as caloric intake: everybody is a bit different
Awesome, keep it up
Ehhhh. Maybe? I wouldn’t call that exercise/drill/corrective diagnostic of anything, and my mental model of biomechanics isn’t advanced enough to link the two. It’s certainly possible.
Awesome stuff man!
The reason elbow angle is related to your symptoms is because medial epicondylalgia affects the long forearm flexors, which attach to the medial epicondyle. This structure is on the humerus, not the forearm. Therefore, the long flexors cross the elbow joint and are elbow flexors.
The reason the bicep is included in that technique isn’t as much related to kinetic chains or muscles as it is to neural control/activation/patterning of movements. That technique is to help people who overgrip subconsciously to relax their grip a little bit better
Today was an odd day. And highlights the downsides to having training be at around dinner time. It gives one, me, a lot of time to think before the workout and sometimes this is not a good thing.
Yesterday was a rest day, today I woke up with a familiar pain in my shoulder. Odd, as I did nothing yesterday that ought to have aggravated it. Usually, my shoulder has resigned to not troubling me in my day to day (it used to) and only really hates on me during flat benching and dips.
This had me thinking that I’m somewhat done with carrying around low levels of pain here and there. Obviously, it won’t go away instantaneously but I had thought, before my session, that I was going to swap flat benching for incline for a while. Maybe permanently. With the goal of finding a set of exercises for my entire body that makes it feel as if I’m building my body and feeling better.
I’ve been referring people to my PT and I know he doesn’t have any available slots right now. I’ll revisit my old rehab for the shoulder, as much of it as I can remember, and have at that for until after the new year. If it gets better then I won’t have to schedule an appointment with him. I know my shoulder problem is related a bit to inward rotation of the shoulder and not having the strongest rear delts and a trapezius that’s a bit lazy.
This “resignation” had me feel somewhat unmotivated with training at the moment so my plan was to just keep showing up and putting in the work but I acknowledge that having some long-term consistency would be smart but at least I’m showing up and plugging away on something which would be better than nothing. To be fair, I was already somewhat unmotivated. Far more motivated with climbing right now. A few months prior it was the opposite (pulley strain).
So my “plan” going in was inspired by a sentiment I read long ago, and had saved, which was this:
And I had picked out a routine to follow that would have me doing just that
I’ve had previous experiments with similar training (Meadows inspired) and didn’t fare super-well on it. I know that I like the ramping that I’ve been doing. I like what double progression brings out of me. When I was doing FT, I loved the muscle rounds, when I did today’s session I can’t even bring myself to do 4 sets of plain push-ups, after 2 I was starting to do mechanical drop-sets. That’s just how I’m wired, I do the same climbing. Not going into full-throttle is just… it’s not how I like to train >_< And training that way, as per the above, just… doesn’t allow that to come to light. Maybe that’s a good thing but…
Anyway, walking into the gym I was going to do something chesty and something shoulder-y (above). And start that program on Monday. And, for some reason, when Marilyn Manson came on in my headphones I thought “I can do some flat benching today, just to figure out more about what is the rub with my shoulder if that’s all I pay attention to”. And benching was pain-free (dips were not). Will not decide on any path until I get some bio-feedback tomorrow.
Rationally, cost-benefit/risk-analysis wise that PPL-split is probably money. However, lifting is my hobby and I’d much rather do it in a way that eggs me on if I can.
the guy seemed butthurt, rereading my post, it seemed a bit short. Figured it’d keep the thread civil and short if I soften the blow for him a bit. I think he may not know of the edit/delete functions because his snarky response to me immediately followed by a cheery response to Darden was kinda silly.
Totally agree, I would have read it as butthurt too in your shoes. I’ve had the same experience with a guy in CT’s forum. “I want HIS advice, thank you” (he wasn’t that polite).
Yeah, I’ve seen that. I wasn’t even giving advice, I was just pointing out that Darden never mentioned who can or can’t do 30-10-30 - which is a fact - and that asking him to use someone else’s system to explain his own method doesn’t make much sense, but, some people just have an answer in mind when they come on here with a question, and they don’t like not getting it.
Nah, again, not taking a definitive stance on anything at the moment. But, let’s say my shoulder is an explosion in the morning then I’d do that PPL thing. So, more training days. It’s easier to get in and punch the clock than to “bring it” throughout an entire session. I’m starting to feel about as clever as squat guy but best program adherences I’ve had (not necessarily best outcomes but) have been to =5-6 training days as the workouts are so short (and usually intense) my mind never has time to wander.
Edit: one style of training I’ve never looked at that might suit me is ME work
I’d have to read up on it. But I’ve seen some players here do things with it. Personally I feel as if I’ve scratched my heavy/intensity-itch after two compounds and then I just have to find a reasonable amount of volume for the hypertrophy work while not falling into the trap of training only things I like. And neglecting stuff.
I don’t know. Without digging things up to support or conflict with my current view is that the younger ones among us here on the forum are more predisposed to chasing shiny things, and not having balance.
AM Climbing, sent a thing I fell on last time. Progress. Started working on a beastly 7a with a crux inside a complete overhang.
PM Squats
Exercise
Set
Reps
Weight
Rest
A. Squat
-6
10
Bar
-5
8
70
-4
6
100
-3
6
110
-2
4
120
-1
4
127
0
1
135
1
6
110
3-5m
2
6
110
3
6
110
B. Front Squat (belt + bench)
0
4
60
3-5m
1
4
70
2
3
80
3
4
75
4
4
70
C. Iso-lateral Machine Hack Squat
1
12
70
90s
2
12
90
3
12
90
4
9(F)
90
D1. GHR
1
12-15
bw
2
12-15
bw
3
12-15
bw
4
12-15
bw
D2. GHR Ab crunch
1
AMRAP
bw
2
AMRAP
bw
3
AMPAP
bw
4
AMRAP
bw
That single at 135 was a really good tell that is my every-day max. And is 90% of my current projected max. Good tell how? Bar speed, and that I could even muster it after today’s fairly long and intense climbing session.
So, thinking that next session will look like this (ish, I’m not too anal about plates when I’m in the gym. I’ll round by convenience),
Gradual build-up/preparation sets/NEURAL PRIMING:
Reps
Weight
Bar
10
Bar
50%
8
67.5
70%
6
94.5
75%
6
101.25
80%
4
108
85%
4
114.75
90%
1-2
121.5
And then work sets at 80%. 5x4-6. I’m okay with running a lower intensity on the squat to get more quality work in.
Cute how I for front squat was about as bad with the bench and a belt as I was beltless and ATG. But last time I did deadlifts before, not squats. And also not on a climbing day. There is a slightly more elevated bench I could play with, this was one of them step-up thingies people use for aerobics class.
Linear Hack Squat busted my hip on the failing rep as my femur came crashing into my hip socket so I’ll try next time I fail to get the locking mechanism in. Was just surprised honestly.
I thought I phrased myself well enough to imply I wasn’t speaking in absolute but as a non-native English speaker maybe I should’ve phrased myself differently to make that clear? (trying to learn, not being blunt)
the guy seemed butthurt, rereading my post, it seemed a bit short. Figured it’d keep the thread civil and short if I soften the blow for him a bit. I think he may not know of the edit/delete functions because his snarky response to me immediately followed by a cheery response to Darden was kinda silly.