That seems to be an interesting niche you have found for yourself!
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Cheers man!
Thursday 2020-10-01
Weight: 76.2 kg
Bouldering
Tons. Also warmed up with two easy (ungraded) autobelays back to back so I got a nice forearm pump that was mild enough to not fuck me up.
Iām so bad at bouldering. Need to find a way to weave it in with enough regularity to improve at both climbing modalities simultaneously.
Same dude. The only time I found myself any good at bouldering, at least in a gym setting, was when I had a membership to the gym that was one building from my college. Iād go 3-5 times per week for 15-60 minutes. Got pretty āstrongā at some weird bouldering moves that had little carry over to my preferred climbing style aside from helping with clipping stances.
I donāt know, today I flunked because of power and grip strength which certainly carries over to lead so seems worthwhile challenging myself there sometimes. There was one technical boulder where I just couldnāt fit into the box. But itās very evident from the setting that all of our setters are strong boulder bros.
I got ānot suckyā at bouldering by spending probably between 5 and 10 hours a week every week in the bouldering room at what was then my local(ish) centre. Iāve always, always preferred bouldering because I really canāt be arsed with ropes, have an innate fear of heights that takes months of work to get rid of (and comes back everytime I restart climbing), and enjoy doing the stupid, stupid moves that bouldering makes possible.
So for the four-six hours I spend climbing every week I need to spend ten of those bouldering 
Maybe Iāll just only get good on lead then.
When can you say youāre a decent/good lead climber 
I was watching a video of Ondra on the spray wall and I feel I could eat my way out of that āphysiqueā in a meal
So few top tier climbers even look like athletes. Iām just going to double down on stronk and become as good as Iāll be at climbing without changing my bodyweight to become better at it.
Weight trending up BTW.
Which, honestly, Iām a bit miffed. My doctor finally realised itās a good idea to weigh me and while Iām glad Iām moving in the right direction for me I feel that it underplays the problems Iāve had making it harder to get specialist help.
I donāt know, Iāve never been one. Iāve only ever been good compared to people who donāt seriously climb, which is like running past strangers on the pavement and pretending you won a race. Although I will say that in my day, my crimping ability is something I donāt think Iāve ever seen bested.
I wish door frames here were functional enough to crimp on
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If your pulley tendons werenāt fooked, Iām sure you could find a solution.
Yeah, almost good now! Was reading my climbing injury book. Thinking Iāll do the final strength level there which is progressive dead hangs and once Iāve completed that protocol consider myself healed (assuming no residual pain).
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I have to admit, I have absolutely no desire to do most of the stuff i used to do again. It was great at the time but Iād be quite happy just going bouldering every couple of weeks and cracking out a bunch of fairly sensible problems. I think, for me, thatās about as invested in climbing as Iād want to be right now.
Could definitely be one of those YMMV deals. Bouldering for me is similar in that grip strength and body control become the limiting factors. For lead, I often find myself strong enough to complete individual moves but lack the endurance or mental fortitude to string them all together.
For me, itās when youāre not afraid of the fall haha.
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I recently moved beyond that point. Iām now apparently an adventure to belay because you just donāt know.
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@anna_5588 the mind plays us devious tricks. Iām starting to balance out my weight, turning it from a downtrend to an up trend and I feel fat and soft to the point where I started mulling over that itās been a while since my last hormone injection.
Maybe Iām a little less lean, but itās negligible. I added two features to my weight sheet, average weekly weight and average monthly trend/slope and neither set of numbers objectively support there being any sense to what Iām subjectively perceiving
My waist measurement is actually down compared to the number I usually see. I donāt actively track this. Usually when I bring out the measure Iām at 81cm. Iām at 79 today
I want to take this time to reiterate that gaining muscle will mean gaining some fat. Itās inevitable. But, something thatās marginally within your control will be how much is muscle and how much is fat by decreasing your activity level.
If you do legs, and give them a growth stimulus, they might stay the same or get smaller if you donāt let them rest enough to actually grow and then what can be made of the surplus that wasnāt used to at least ensure they didnāt get smaller? Fat. So, at least start at doing a whole lot less. A lot a lot.
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Forgot to weigh in this morning. Doing an earlier workout so I went for waves of meat on bread. If this had been all rye I wouldāve claimed it to be my Danish Homage (SmĆørrebrĆød)
@mortdk might shake his headā¦
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Friday 2020-10-02
Feels weird not to cap the week off with deadlifts. Itās Friday and I have energy. Odd
| Exercise | Set | Reps | Weight | Rest | Tempo | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| A. Bench | -2 | 10 | 40 | short | Normal | Shoulder felt explody today |
| -1 | 6 | 60 | short | |||
| 0 | 1 | 70 | moderate | |||
| 1 | 3 | 77 | 3-5m (work sets) | |||
| 2 | 3 | 77 | ||||
| 3 | 3 | 77 | ||||
| 4 | 3 | 77 | ||||
| 5 | 5 | 77 | ||||
| B. High-bar Squat | 0 | 8 | 60 | 2-3 | Normal | |
| 1 | 10 | 75 | ||||
| 2 | 10 | 75 | ||||
| 3 | 10 | 75 | Hella deep | |||
| C. Knob Pull-Ups | 1 | 13+2 | BW | |||
| 2 | 10+5 | BW | ||||
| 3 | 8+3+3+1 | BW |
| Exercise | Sets & Reps | |
|---|---|---|
| D. 30 degree lateral raises | 3x10-12 | To failure mostly |
| E. Overhead Triceps Extension With One Dumbbell | 3x10-12 | Final set to failure |
Tried Lat-pulldowns with a NG attachment but my shoulder continued to feel explod-y so I found another vertical pull that left my shoulder and elbow in tip-top.
These are them knobs,
Reps were strictish
Patellar tendon felt like ass walking home but okay during squats.
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Was challenged to reach a hundred kilo bench before Christmas. Iāve never benched for a single. Letās see if I canāt gain some 2-300g/wk (bw) for 12 weeks and make that a reality. Todayās weights were maybe 85%. Calculated max of 90 then. A little less than a kilo to the max per week. Seems doable.
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