I may be an industry professional, but I’m far from a professional climber! I love climbing, but I’m one of those guys who mostly just climbs. I’ve done cycles of repeaters and max hangs on the hangboard, but that’s the only sport-specific training I’ve done. I incorporate various technique drills into my indoor climbing, and will change up approaches (endurance focus, power focus, etc.) from time to time, but I really don’t get fancy with the training.
I climb three times a week and have been for the past five or so years. Sometimes one of those days turns into a hangboard day if I’m doing hangboarding. My lifting has always been non-climbing specific (though I would argue anything that gets you stronger is certainly valuable, and many climbers benefit by incorporating generalized strength work). Really, with lifting, I mostly focus on training areas of my body that climbing doesn’t maximally develop. I’m almost always doing:
-Some kind of upper body push
-Some kind of upper body horizontal pull. I figure I get enough vertical pulling work over the course of a week, so I spend the time rounding out my back and keeping my shoulders healthy. I was curious the other day, turns out I can do 15 strict pullups. Climbing is probably giving me enough strength there
-Squat, lunge, and hinge variations
-Pronated curls: this is for structural balance and elbow health. I get tennis elbow about six weeks after stopping every time I think maybe I don’t need to do them anymore.
-A couple other isolation movements for whatever I feel like I might need.
I’ve always trained full-body, especially now that I only lift once a week. I’m glad to see I’m still getting stronger on once a week, although the three climbing sessions and two jiu jitsu sessions are probably complimenting that.
Long story short, while climbing is my passion, I’m not super gung ho about maximizing climbing performance at the expense of other things. I like also feeling strong in the gym, and now that I’ve found jju jitsu, it’s been a really enjoyable new challenge. Being a beginner at something again is fun. I only project routes up to 5.13a (or 7c+ depending on where you’re from) . I could do better with more focus into just climbing, but I’m happy with what I’m doing now.
As for the diet, I love it! Having already done this last year, knowing how simple, effective, and not overly difficult it is, I think it’ll just be an annual thing. I started this year at around the same weight I started at last year, but with a slightly better body comp than last year. I’m excited to see how I’ll look after it’s over.