[quote]Yo Momma wrote:
The cat hates you, and is trying to mark his territory with his pee. I had a cat once that used to pee in Yo Daddy’s shoes. One day when I came home from work, Yo Daddy said he got loose and ran away.[/quote]
Oh man, funny. But, you know…not.
My suggestion for the OP is to try extra litter boxes.
Time for you to go on a bulk.
Eat the cat. I recommend grilling it. Ten minutes on a George Foreman grill should do the trick, just add some salt and pepper.
Should I add this to the T-Cell Alpha recipe thread?
EDIT: And now I see dk44’s post. Great (read: retarded) minds think alike. Have you got those carrots yet?
[quote]Makavali wrote:
Eat the cat. I recommend grilling it. Ten minutes on a George Foreman grill should do the trick, just add some salt and pepper.
Should I add this to the T-Cell Alpha recipe thread?
EDIT: And now I see dk44’s post. Great (read: retarded) minds think alike. Have you got those carrots yet?[/quote]
Me and Mak, just hanging out.
[quote]dk44 wrote:
Me and Mak, just hanging out.[/quote]
I’ll be the one with the white shorts.
[quote]Makavali wrote:
dk44 wrote:
Me and Mak, just hanging out.
I’ll be the one with the white shorts.[/quote]
I’ll be the Lumberjack Pirate hybrid.
[quote]dk44 wrote:
I’ll be the Lumberjack Pirate hybrid.[/quote]
I lol’d!
Any time a cat pees in an area outside the litter box, for any reason, other cats are inclined to pee in the same spot. So, your theory would make sense. The only real way to determine who is doing the peeing would be to disallow the cats access to the bedroom, one at a time, and see when the peeing occurs.
I’m wondering if the vet has diagnosed renal failure, or if this is something you have come to suspect based on the presence of blood in the female’s urine. I ask because I have never heard of blood in the urine as a result of Chronic Renal Failure, the most common cause of death in cats over 10. Blood in the urine is most often indicative of infection (which your vet has ruled out), or a condition called FUS (feline urological syndrome). FUS causes unexplained inflammation and bleeding of the bladder lining, as well as urinary tract stones and crystals in some cases. FUS is generally a manageable disease with a special diet and sometimes medications.
If Chronic Renal Failure IS the problem, there are also treatment options there, also including diet, medications, and subcutaneous or IV fluids, that may help the older kitty feel better.
The reason I get into all this is because the ideal solution would be to treat whatever is ailing the older kitty to stop HER from urinating in the bed, and hopefully that will reduce the male’s urge to urinate in the accident areas. As long as one keeps having accidents, the other will probably feel compelled to urine mark the area.
Here are some other things that may help:
I’m not sure how many boxes you have. Ideally, you should have one box per cat, plus one. Four would be best for your household. This cuts down on some of the reasons cats fail to use the litter box consistently �?? they don’t like to share, they prefer to have a “pee box” and a “poop box” (very common); the box is too dirty for their taste. Some cats will not even use a box if there is one bowel movement in there! I suggest placing them in different rooms so that the cats are close to a box whenever the urge arises. It may also be that the older cat is suffering a bit of incontinence, and having a box close by may help.
You also may want to try a new litter called Cat Attract. It is designed to draw back cats who don’t use the box consistently, using herbs. Their site is www.preciouscat.com.
You do need to remove all stains before you can hope to see improvement. For cleaning up accidents, you’ll need to use an enzymatic cleaner (a cleaner that uses natural enzymes and bacteria to decompose the stain). Cat urine is full of fat, which is very sticky. This is why cat urine stains are so hard to remove. Enzymes break down fat molecules to allow for complete removal of the stain. The two enzymatic cleaners I recommend are Nature’s Miracle, available at pet stores, and Greased Lightning Orange Blast, available at grocery stores. Unless you remove the stains completely, the cat will still be able to smell them, even if you can’t. You may also want to use a florescent black light to detect unseen urine stains. Any urine stains will glow yellow-green.
Because mattresses are so absorbent, it may not be possible to remove stains completely, and if accidents keep happening, you may need to replace the mattress.
Anxiety may also be a part of the problem. It’s not always possible to determine the cause of anxiety, since cats are such sensitive creatures. Cats may urinate outside the box when feeling anxious because urine is full of pheromones, a hormone shown to reduce stress. When a cat is feeling anxious, he may urinate outside the box to benefit from those hormones. There’s a product called Feliway that simulates these pheromones and reduces the cat’s urge to urinate outside the box. I use and recommend it to all. It’s a bit pricey, but worth it. It’s available in a spray or plug-in diffuser. I recommend the diffuser because it’s easiest to use. You can order at www.felineway.com, or buy it at pet stores and vet offices.
Finally, any anxiety cases that don’t respond to Feliway will usually respond to antidepression medications. There are several choices - amitriptyline, buspirone, Valium, clomipramine, and fluoxetine (Prozac) are most commonly used. Prozac is the newest and seems most promising. In some studies, it has been shown to be successful in treating over 90% of cases that have not responded to non-medical treatments, and about 70% of cases that have not responded to other antidepression meds. It also is an excellent choice because it has no side effects. It does tend to be a little on the expensive side - around $45 a month in my area (northeast U.S.). However, very often, it can be tapered off and discontinued after a few months of use, when the cat’s behavior has been corrected. I have used it in two of my cats and highly recommend it when needed.
These kitties don’t happen to be declawed, do they? Inappropriate elimination is the most common complaint about cats who are declawed, next to aggression. Declawing may cause pain on the feet starting immediately after the surgery, or years down the road. It is also responsible for arthritis, which can cause pain getting in and out of the litter box, or pain as the cat’s feet sink into the litter. In these cases, pain relievers and supplements like Cosequin, to help arthritis, may be useful. Also, switching from regular litter to shredded newspaper or a ground cedar litter may help. You should also use a shallow box and make the litter no deeper than 1�??.
[quote]yogaroots wrote:
Any time a cat pees in an area outside the litter box, for any reason, other cats are inclined to pee in the same spot. So, your theory would make sense. The only real way to determine who is doing the peeing would be to disallow the cats access to the bedroom, one at a time, and see when the peeing occurs.
I’m wondering if the vet has diagnosed renal failure, or if this is something you have come to suspect based on the presence of blood in the female’s urine. I ask because I have never heard of blood in the urine as a result of Chronic Renal Failure, the most common cause of death in cats over 10. Blood in the urine is most often indicative of infection (which your vet has ruled out), or a condition called FUS (feline urological syndrome). FUS causes unexplained inflammation and bleeding of the bladder lining, as well as urinary tract stones and crystals in some cases. FUS is generally a manageable disease with a special diet and sometimes medications.
If Chronic Renal Failure IS the problem, there are also treatment options there, also including diet, medications, and subcutaneous or IV fluids, that may help the older kitty feel better.
The reason I get into all this is because the ideal solution would be to treat whatever is ailing the older kitty to stop HER from urinating in the bed, and hopefully that will reduce the male’s urge to urinate in the accident areas. As long as one keeps having accidents, the other will probably feel compelled to urine mark the area.
Here are some other things that may help:
I’m not sure how many boxes you have. Ideally, you should have one box per cat, plus one. Four would be best for your household. This cuts down on some of the reasons cats fail to use the litter box consistently �?? they don’t like to share, they prefer to have a “pee box” and a “poop box” (very common); the box is too dirty for their taste. Some cats will not even use a box if there is one bowel movement in there! I suggest placing them in different rooms so that the cats are close to a box whenever the urge arises. It may also be that the older cat is suffering a bit of incontinence, and having a box close by may help.
You also may want to try a new litter called Cat Attract. It is designed to draw back cats who don’t use the box consistently, using herbs. Their site is www.preciouscat.com.
You do need to remove all stains before you can hope to see improvement. For cleaning up accidents, you’ll need to use an enzymatic cleaner (a cleaner that uses natural enzymes and bacteria to decompose the stain). Cat urine is full of fat, which is very sticky. This is why cat urine stains are so hard to remove. Enzymes break down fat molecules to allow for complete removal of the stain. The two enzymatic cleaners I recommend are Nature’s Miracle, available at pet stores, and Greased Lightning Orange Blast, available at grocery stores. Unless you remove the stains completely, the cat will still be able to smell them, even if you can’t. You may also want to use a florescent black light to detect unseen urine stains. Any urine stains will glow yellow-green.
Because mattresses are so absorbent, it may not be possible to remove stains completely, and if accidents keep happening, you may need to replace the mattress.
Anxiety may also be a part of the problem. It’s not always possible to determine the cause of anxiety, since cats are such sensitive creatures. Cats may urinate outside the box when feeling anxious because urine is full of pheromones, a hormone shown to reduce stress. When a cat is feeling anxious, he may urinate outside the box to benefit from those hormones. There’s a product called Feliway that simulates these pheromones and reduces the cat’s urge to urinate outside the box. I use and recommend it to all. It’s a bit pricey, but worth it. It’s available in a spray or plug-in diffuser. I recommend the diffuser because it’s easiest to use. You can order at www.felineway.com, or buy it at pet stores and vet offices.
Finally, any anxiety cases that don’t respond to Feliway will usually respond to antidepression medications. There are several choices - amitriptyline, buspirone, Valium, clomipramine, and fluoxetine (Prozac) are most commonly used. Prozac is the newest and seems most promising. In some studies, it has been shown to be successful in treating over 90% of cases that have not responded to non-medical treatments, and about 70% of cases that have not responded to other antidepression meds. It also is an excellent choice because it has no side effects. It does tend to be a little on the expensive side - around $45 a month in my area (northeast U.S.). However, very often, it can be tapered off and discontinued after a few months of use, when the cat’s behavior has been corrected. I have used it in two of my cats and highly recommend it when needed.
These kitties don’t happen to be declawed, do they? Inappropriate elimination is the most common complaint about cats who are declawed, next to aggression. Declawing may cause pain on the feet starting immediately after the surgery, or years down the road. It is also responsible for arthritis, which can cause pain getting in and out of the litter box, or pain as the cat’s feet sink into the litter. In these cases, pain relievers and supplements like Cosequin, to help arthritis, may be useful. Also, switching from regular litter to shredded newspaper or a ground cedar litter may help. You should also use a shallow box and make the litter no deeper than 1�??.
[/quote]
Holy shit man…
usually that means something is wrong with the animal, she should take it to the vet to see if something’s up
[quote]ab_power wrote:
yogaroots wrote:
Any time a cat pees in an area outside the litter box, for any reason, other cats are inclined to pee in the same spot. So, your theory would make sense. The only real way to determine who is doing the peeing would be to disallow the cats access to the bedroom, one at a time, and see when the peeing occurs.
I’m wondering if the vet has diagnosed renal failure, or if this is something you have come to suspect based on the presence of blood in the female’s urine. I ask because I have never heard of blood in the urine as a result of Chronic Renal Failure, the most common cause of death in cats over 10. Blood in the urine is most often indicative of infection (which your vet has ruled out), or a condition called FUS (feline urological syndrome). FUS causes unexplained inflammation and bleeding of the bladder lining, as well as urinary tract stones and crystals in some cases. FUS is generally a manageable disease with a special diet and sometimes medications.
If Chronic Renal Failure IS the problem, there are also treatment options there, also including diet, medications, and subcutaneous or IV fluids, that may help the older kitty feel better.
The reason I get into all this is because the ideal solution would be to treat whatever is ailing the older kitty to stop HER from urinating in the bed, and hopefully that will reduce the male’s urge to urinate in the accident areas. As long as one keeps having accidents, the other will probably feel compelled to urine mark the area.
Here are some other things that may help:
I’m not sure how many boxes you have. Ideally, you should have one box per cat, plus one. Four would be best for your household. This cuts down on some of the reasons cats fail to use the litter box consistently �?? they don’t like to share, they prefer to have a “pee box” and a “poop box” (very common); the box is too dirty for their taste. Some cats will not even use a box if there is one bowel movement in there! I suggest placing them in different rooms so that the cats are close to a box whenever the urge arises. It may also be that the older cat is suffering a bit of incontinence, and having a box close by may help.
You also may want to try a new litter called Cat Attract. It is designed to draw back cats who don’t use the box consistently, using herbs. Their site is www.preciouscat.com.
You do need to remove all stains before you can hope to see improvement. For cleaning up accidents, you’ll need to use an enzymatic cleaner (a cleaner that uses natural enzymes and bacteria to decompose the stain). Cat urine is full of fat, which is very sticky. This is why cat urine stains are so hard to remove. Enzymes break down fat molecules to allow for complete removal of the stain. The two enzymatic cleaners I recommend are Nature’s Miracle, available at pet stores, and Greased Lightning Orange Blast, available at grocery stores. Unless you remove the stains completely, the cat will still be able to smell them, even if you can’t. You may also want to use a florescent black light to detect unseen urine stains. Any urine stains will glow yellow-green.
Because mattresses are so absorbent, it may not be possible to remove stains completely, and if accidents keep happening, you may need to replace the mattress.
Anxiety may also be a part of the problem. It’s not always possible to determine the cause of anxiety, since cats are such sensitive creatures. Cats may urinate outside the box when feeling anxious because urine is full of pheromones, a hormone shown to reduce stress. When a cat is feeling anxious, he may urinate outside the box to benefit from those hormones. There’s a product called Feliway that simulates these pheromones and reduces the cat’s urge to urinate outside the box. I use and recommend it to all. It’s a bit pricey, but worth it. It’s available in a spray or plug-in diffuser. I recommend the diffuser because it’s easiest to use. You can order at www.felineway.com, or buy it at pet stores and vet offices.
Finally, any anxiety cases that don’t respond to Feliway will usually respond to antidepression medications. There are several choices - amitriptyline, buspirone, Valium, clomipramine, and fluoxetine (Prozac) are most commonly used. Prozac is the newest and seems most promising. In some studies, it has been shown to be successful in treating over 90% of cases that have not responded to non-medical treatments, and about 70% of cases that have not responded to other antidepression meds. It also is an excellent choice because it has no side effects. It does tend to be a little on the expensive side - around $45 a month in my area (northeast U.S.). However, very often, it can be tapered off and discontinued after a few months of use, when the cat’s behavior has been corrected. I have used it in two of my cats and highly recommend it when needed.
These kitties don’t happen to be declawed, do they? Inappropriate elimination is the most common complaint about cats who are declawed, next to aggression. Declawing may cause pain on the feet starting immediately after the surgery, or years down the road. It is also responsible for arthritis, which can cause pain getting in and out of the litter box, or pain as the cat’s feet sink into the litter. In these cases, pain relievers and supplements like Cosequin, to help arthritis, may be useful. Also, switching from regular litter to shredded newspaper or a ground cedar litter may help. You should also use a shallow box and make the litter no deeper than 1�??.
Holy shit man…
[/quote]
sorry my gf’s a vet
[quote]dk44 wrote:
Time for you to go on a bulk.[/quote]
Haha! Exactly.
My aunt had a cat that did this to my uncle when they first got together. It peed on everything, including his work uniform and flight bag (expensive stuff to replace). Anyways, he started feeding it special cat treats and the cat started to like him. The cat is obviously doing this because it doesn’t like you and sees you as a threat.
My personal feelings about women with obnoxious cats are better kept to myself, probably.
If all else fails, you can always go on a bulk.
[quote]dk44 wrote:
Makavali wrote:
dk44 wrote:
Me and Mak, just hanging out.
I’ll be the one with the white shorts.
I’ll be the Lumberjack Pirate hybrid.[/quote]
And I’ll be the…oh…
chinese food for dinner?..we got a cat about 18 months ago, she would continually come into my bedroom and bite my feet to wake me up also on more than a couple occasions awake to see her standing on my chest staring at me
This makes me laugh for some sick reason.
My wife got this from a coworker. I thought it was funny as hell and it seems appropriate here. It should give you some insight into the mind of the animal you’re dealing with. Good Luck.
Dog and Cat diary
DOG DIARY
8:00 am - Dog food! My favorite thing!
9:30 am - A car ride! My favorite thing!
9:40 am - A walk in the park! My favorite thing!
10:30 am - Got rubbed and petted! My favorite thing!
12:00 PM - Lunch! My favorite thing!
1:00 PM - Played in the yard! My favorite thing!
3:00 PM - Wagged my tail! My favorite thing!
5:00 PM - Milk bones! My favorite thing!
7:00 PM - Got to play ball! My favorite thing!
8:00 PM - Wow! Watched TV with the people! My favorite thing!
11:00 PM - Sleeping on the bed! My favorite thing!
CAT DIARY
Day 983 of my captivity.
My captors continue to taunt me with bizarre little dangling objects. They dine lavishly on fresh meat, while the other inmates and I are fed hash or some sort of dry nuggets.
Although I make my contempt for the rations perfectly clear, I nevertheless must eat something in order to keep up my strength. The only thing that keeps me going is my dream of escape.
In an attempt to disgust them, I once again vomit on the carpet.
Today I decapitated a mouse and dropped its headless body at their feet. I had hoped this would strike fear into their hearts, since it clearly demonstrates what I am capable of. However, they merely made condescending comments about what a ‘good little hunter’ I am. Bastards!
There was some sort of assembly of their accomplices tonight. I was placed in solitary confinement for the duration of the event. However, I could hear the noises and smell the food. I overheard that my confinement was due to the power of ‘allergies.’ I must learn what this means, and how to use it to my advantage.
Today I was almost successful in an attempt to assassinate one of my tormentors by weaving around his feet as he was walking. I must try th is again tomorrow – but at the top of the stairs.
I am convinced that the other prisoners here are flunkies and snitches.
The dog receives special privileges. He is regularly released - and seems to be more than willing to return. He is obviously retarded.
[quote]yogaroots wrote:
Any time a cat pees in an area outside the litter box, for any reason, other cats are inclined to pee in the same spot. So, your theory would make sense. The only real way to determine who is doing the peeing would be to disallow the cats access to the bedroom, one at a time, and see when the peeing occurs.
I’m wondering if the vet has diagnosed renal failure, or if this is something you have come to suspect based on the presence of blood in the female’s urine. I ask because I have never heard of blood in the urine as a result of Chronic Renal Failure, the most common cause of death in cats over 10. Blood in the urine is most often indicative of infection (which your vet has ruled out), or a condition called FUS (feline urological syndrome). FUS causes unexplained inflammation and bleeding of the bladder lining, as well as urinary tract stones and crystals in some cases. FUS is generally a manageable disease with a special diet and sometimes medications.
If Chronic Renal Failure IS the problem, there are also treatment options there, also including diet, medications, and subcutaneous or IV fluids, that may help the older kitty feel better.
The reason I get into all this is because the ideal solution would be to treat whatever is ailing the older kitty to stop HER from urinating in the bed, and hopefully that will reduce the male’s urge to urinate in the accident areas. As long as one keeps having accidents, the other will probably feel compelled to urine mark the area.
Here are some other things that may help:
I’m not sure how many boxes you have. Ideally, you should have one box per cat, plus one. Four would be best for your household. This cuts down on some of the reasons cats fail to use the litter box consistently �?? they don’t like to share, they prefer to have a “pee box” and a “poop box” (very common); the box is too dirty for their taste. Some cats will not even use a box if there is one bowel movement in there! I suggest placing them in different rooms so that the cats are close to a box whenever the urge arises. It may also be that the older cat is suffering a bit of incontinence, and having a box close by may help.
You also may want to try a new litter called Cat Attract. It is designed to draw back cats who don’t use the box consistently, using herbs. Their site is www.preciouscat.com.
You do need to remove all stains before you can hope to see improvement. For cleaning up accidents, you’ll need to use an enzymatic cleaner (a cleaner that uses natural enzymes and bacteria to decompose the stain). Cat urine is full of fat, which is very sticky. This is why cat urine stains are so hard to remove. Enzymes break down fat molecules to allow for complete removal of the stain. The two enzymatic cleaners I recommend are Nature’s Miracle, available at pet stores, and Greased Lightning Orange Blast, available at grocery stores. Unless you remove the stains completely, the cat will still be able to smell them, even if you can’t. You may also want to use a florescent black light to detect unseen urine stains. Any urine stains will glow yellow-green.
Because mattresses are so absorbent, it may not be possible to remove stains completely, and if accidents keep happening, you may need to replace the mattress.
Anxiety may also be a part of the problem. It’s not always possible to determine the cause of anxiety, since cats are such sensitive creatures. Cats may urinate outside the box when feeling anxious because urine is full of pheromones, a hormone shown to reduce stress. When a cat is feeling anxious, he may urinate outside the box to benefit from those hormones. There’s a product called Feliway that simulates these pheromones and reduces the cat’s urge to urinate outside the box. I use and recommend it to all. It’s a bit pricey, but worth it. It’s available in a spray or plug-in diffuser. I recommend the diffuser because it’s easiest to use. You can order at www.felineway.com, or buy it at pet stores and vet offices.
Finally, any anxiety cases that don’t respond to Feliway will usually respond to antidepression medications. There are several choices - amitriptyline, buspirone, Valium, clomipramine, and fluoxetine (Prozac) are most commonly used. Prozac is the newest and seems most promising. In some studies, it has been shown to be successful in treating over 90% of cases that have not responded to non-medical treatments, and about 70% of cases that have not responded to other antidepression meds. It also is an excellent choice because it has no side effects. It does tend to be a little on the expensive side - around $45 a month in my area (northeast U.S.). However, very often, it can be tapered off and discontinued after a few months of use, when the cat’s behavior has been corrected. I have used it in two of my cats and highly recommend it when needed.
These kitties don’t happen to be declawed, do they? Inappropriate elimination is the most common complaint about cats who are declawed, next to aggression. Declawing may cause pain on the feet starting immediately after the surgery, or years down the road. It is also responsible for arthritis, which can cause pain getting in and out of the litter box, or pain as the cat’s feet sink into the litter. In these cases, pain relievers and supplements like Cosequin, to help arthritis, may be useful. Also, switching from regular litter to shredded newspaper or a ground cedar litter may help. You should also use a shallow box and make the litter no deeper than 1�??.
[/quote]
That was an awesome post.
[quote]Defekt wrote:
yogaroots wrote:
Any time a cat pees in an area outside the litter box, for any reason, other cats are inclined to pee in the same spot. So, your theory would make sense. The only real way to determine who is doing the peeing would be to disallow the cats access to the bedroom, one at a time, and see when the peeing occurs.
I’m wondering if the vet has diagnosed renal failure, or if this is something you have come to suspect based on the presence of blood in the female’s urine. I ask because I have never heard of blood in the urine as a result of Chronic Renal Failure, the most common cause of death in cats over 10. Blood in the urine is most often indicative of infection (which your vet has ruled out), or a condition called FUS (feline urological syndrome). FUS causes unexplained inflammation and bleeding of the bladder lining, as well as urinary tract stones and crystals in some cases. FUS is generally a manageable disease with a special diet and sometimes medications.
If Chronic Renal Failure IS the problem, there are also treatment options there, also including diet, medications, and subcutaneous or IV fluids, that may help the older kitty feel better.
The reason I get into all this is because the ideal solution would be to treat whatever is ailing the older kitty to stop HER from urinating in the bed, and hopefully that will reduce the male’s urge to urinate in the accident areas. As long as one keeps having accidents, the other will probably feel compelled to urine mark the area.
Here are some other things that may help:
I’m not sure how many boxes you have. Ideally, you should have one box per cat, plus one. Four would be best for your household. This cuts down on some of the reasons cats fail to use the litter box consistently �?? they don’t like to share, they prefer to have a “pee box” and a “poop box” (very common); the box is too dirty for their taste. Some cats will not even use a box if there is one bowel movement in there! I suggest placing them in different rooms so that the cats are close to a box whenever the urge arises. It may also be that the older cat is suffering a bit of incontinence, and having a box close by may help.
You also may want to try a new litter called Cat Attract. It is designed to draw back cats who don’t use the box consistently, using herbs. Their site is www.preciouscat.com.
You do need to remove all stains before you can hope to see improvement. For cleaning up accidents, you’ll need to use an enzymatic cleaner (a cleaner that uses natural enzymes and bacteria to decompose the stain). Cat urine is full of fat, which is very sticky. This is why cat urine stains are so hard to remove. Enzymes break down fat molecules to allow for complete removal of the stain. The two enzymatic cleaners I recommend are Nature’s Miracle, available at pet stores, and Greased Lightning Orange Blast, available at grocery stores. Unless you remove the stains completely, the cat will still be able to smell them, even if you can’t. You may also want to use a florescent black light to detect unseen urine stains. Any urine stains will glow yellow-green.
Because mattresses are so absorbent, it may not be possible to remove stains completely, and if accidents keep happening, you may need to replace the mattress.
Anxiety may also be a part of the problem. It’s not always possible to determine the cause of anxiety, since cats are such sensitive creatures. Cats may urinate outside the box when feeling anxious because urine is full of pheromones, a hormone shown to reduce stress. When a cat is feeling anxious, he may urinate outside the box to benefit from those hormones. There’s a product called Feliway that simulates these pheromones and reduces the cat’s urge to urinate outside the box. I use and recommend it to all. It’s a bit pricey, but worth it. It’s available in a spray or plug-in diffuser. I recommend the diffuser because it’s easiest to use. You can order at www.felineway.com, or buy it at pet stores and vet offices.
Finally, any anxiety cases that don’t respond to Feliway will usually respond to antidepression medications. There are several choices - amitriptyline, buspirone, Valium, clomipramine, and fluoxetine (Prozac) are most commonly used. Prozac is the newest and seems most promising. In some studies, it has been shown to be successful in treating over 90% of cases that have not responded to non-medical treatments, and about 70% of cases that have not responded to other antidepression meds. It also is an excellent choice because it has no side effects. It does tend to be a little on the expensive side - around $45 a month in my area (northeast U.S.). However, very often, it can be tapered off and discontinued after a few months of use, when the cat’s behavior has been corrected. I have used it in two of my cats and highly recommend it when needed.
These kitties don’t happen to be declawed, do they? Inappropriate elimination is the most common complaint about cats who are declawed, next to aggression. Declawing may cause pain on the feet starting immediately after the surgery, or years down the road. It is also responsible for arthritis, which can cause pain getting in and out of the litter box, or pain as the cat’s feet sink into the litter. In these cases, pain relievers and supplements like Cosequin, to help arthritis, may be useful. Also, switching from regular litter to shredded newspaper or a ground cedar litter may help. You should also use a shallow box and make the litter no deeper than 1�??.
That was an awesome post. [/quote]
I’m sure I’m not the only one that will be content to take your word for it.
Walk the cat. No, I’m not kidding.