Jan 16th Workout
Climbing
Routes (Doubles. Do a climb, immediately lower and do a second climb)
11b, 10b
11a, 10a
12a, 10b
11b, 10b
10c, 10d
11b, 10c
11c, 10b
11a, 10c
11b, 10b
Notes: Did endurance work today, doing 9 pairs of climbs in 2 hrs 15 minutes. Totaled over 650 vertical ft of climbing at slightly to severely overhanging.
Bench
Warmup (pause first rep)
bar x 10
135 x 5
185 x 5
225 x 4
265 x 2
295 x 1
315 x 1 paused
Working sets
295 x 4
295 x 4
295 x 4
295 x 4
295 x 4
295 x 8 (AMRAP) PR
Dead bench
255 every 60 seconds for 6 total
Very impressive. That 8 set isn’t easy to attain!
[quote]barbedwired wrote:
Very impressive. That 8 set isn’t easy to attain! [/quote]
Thanks! My work capacity is slowly improving.
Jan 17th Workout
Lifting
Bench
Warmup (pause first rep)
bar x 10
135 x 5
185 x 5
225 x 4
265 x 2
295 x 1
315 x 1 paused
Working sets
270 x 8
270 x 8
270 x 8
270 x 8
extra wide grip paused
240 x 8
close grip TnG
240 x 10
Low incline dumbbell press
75’s x 12
Weighted dips
BW + 45 lbs x 10
Shoulder work
4 x 15 band pull aparts
3 x 10 Poliquin delt raises with 15’s
Notes: Felt really fatigued today. Didn’t sleep well last night, so I cut most of my accessory work in half. Have only two more days of this volume cycle until I switch to an intensity cycle for a few weeks. Looking forward to the change.
Jan 18th Workouts
Climbing
Bouldering
V2 x 2
V3 x 2
V4 x 3
V5 x 3
V6 x 2
Notes: Worked several harder problems, made some progress on some, not so much on others.
Lifting
Trap Bar Deadlift
142 x 5
142 x 5
192 x 5
232 x 5
252 x 5
278 x 5
298 x 5
298 x 5
298 x 5
Conditioning
Completed the following every 90 seconds for 6 rounds
104 lb Fatbar ground to overhead x 5
Fatbar pullups + 35 lbs x 5
Abwheel roll outs x 5
Hammer Curls
35’s x 10
40’s x 10
40’s x 10
40’s x 10
Notes: Deadlifts felt really good today, even though I tweaked my hip a little climbing. Conditioning was killing my grip after climbing and deadlifting. The 2" bar is killer.
Jan 19th Workout
Climbing
Routes
10b
11c
11b
12d
12c
12b
12b
12a
Campus board work
Shoulder work
2 x 12 overhead barbell shrugs
2 x 12 Pullup retractions
2 x 12 Scap raises
2" axel bar curls
83 lb x 10 x 8 sets
Notes: Worked on several new routes today. The campus board work was easier than I expected. The rest was just for shoulder health and bicep pump.
Jan 20th Workout
AM Snowboarding
PM Lifting
Bench
Warmup (pause first rep)
bar x 10
135 x 5
185 x 5
225 x 4
265 x 2
295 x 1
315 x 1 paused
Working sets
285 x 6
285 x 6
285 x 6
285 x 6
285 x 6
4 x 15 Band pull aparts
4 x 10 Roman chair leg raises
Notes: Arms felt rough today so I could out all accessory work. Even the working sets felt like they were at my limit.
Jan 22nd Workout
Climbing
Bouldering
V1
V2 x 2
V3 x 3
V4 x 5
V5 x 2
V6 x 1
Notes: Took yesterday off completely from all physical activity, and it was glorious. First day off in a month or so. Went to the bouldering gym today and my GF broke her ankle so workout was cut short. I was making decent progress on some V7’s and V8’s before cutting the session short to go to urgent care.
Jan 23rd workout
Bench
Warmup (pause first rep)
bar x 10
135 x 5
185 x 5
225 x 4
265 x 2
295 x 1
315 x 1 paused
Working sets
300 x 4
300 x 4
300 x 4
300 x 4
300 x 4
300 x 8 (AMRAP) PR
4 x 15 band pull aparts between warmup sets
Notes: Felt great today, doing less accessory work the last couple workouts. This is my last day of the volume cycle before a short intensity cycle. New 8RM, and new calculated max! Something must be working.
How many cycles of that DUP program have you ran and how much stronger did you get each time? It seems like you’re planning to run it (although slightly modified) for the foreseeable future.
Out of curiosity, have you ever tried the captains of crush gripper? It seems like you can close at least a 3.5 with all that climbing work.
[quote]lift206 wrote:
How many cycles of that DUP program have you ran and how much stronger did you get each time? It seems like you’re planning to run it (although slightly modified) for the foreseeable future.
Out of curiosity, have you ever tried the captains of crush gripper? It seems like you can close at least a 3.5 with all that climbing work.[/quote]
I ran two cycles of the research study DUP cycle and tested my bench a week before, coming off a shoulder injury, could do 315 x 3. After first cycle, got 315 x 5, 4, 4 on my last day. Ran the cycle again and got 320 for 5, 4, and 4, and ended the cycle with 335 for 3 x 3. I felt I gained more after the first cycle than the second.
Now I am doing a different DUP, that is lower intensity, and doing a volume phase and an intensity phase. My “training week” is actually 9 days long with lifting ideally every 3rd day. Occasionally I have lifted with only one rest day between, making it an 8 day cycle.
Day 1, I do 70% for 4 x 8
Day 2, I do 75% for 5 x 6
Day 3, I do 80% for 6 x 4 (with AMRAP on 6th set)
I repeated this three times for a total of 4 cycles, adding 5 lbs to each day each cycle.
My intensity phase (after a training day deload) will be
Day 1, 80% 4 x 4
Day 2, 85% 4 x 3
Day 3, 90% 4 x 2 (AMRAP last set)
I plan to add 10 lbs, and repeat once, then transition back to Volume phase.
As to the captain of crush, I have never tried them. I personally don’t work grip work as much as what is called “contact strength” in climbing. But the two are related. And since my gym has got a fatbar, I have loved doing more work with that.
Thanks for the reply. I’ll try this out for bench in the future. Did the program affect the health of your shoulder? In terms of DUP programs, it seems like this program is slightly better than Smolov Jr. for those prone to injury. I think my elbows would be able to handle this much better.
How is babydoll’s ankle?
[quote]lift206 wrote:
Thanks for the reply. I’ll try this out for bench in the future. Did the program affect the health of your shoulder? In terms of DUP programs, it seems like this program is slightly better than Smolov Jr. for those prone to injury. I think my elbows would be able to handle this much better. [/quote]
My shoulder felt fine. I really liked the volume, and it was my first time benching more than once every 5 days. The middle day, power day, felt like a recovery day, honestly.
Jan 24th Workout
Climbing
Routes
10d
11c
11d
11d
10d
12a
11b
11d
Bouldering
V2
V3
V4
V5
Notes: Wanted to boulder today but it was too crowded, so switched to routes. Not really with it today.
[quote]Ecchastang wrote:
[quote]FarmerOwen wrote:
Alpha Dude! Question for ya, is there anything in specific you do or would recommend for tendon health, specifically in the hands and forearms? [/quote]I am not Alpha, but what kind of tendon issues are you having? As a rock climber of 13 yrs, I have had to deal with tons of issues from the elbows up.
[/quote] Howdy dude thanks for taking the time to help me out! The more I think about it I thinks its both tendon and nerve…the other day I was yanking on the pull start on our ATV when I felt a pop in my left hand but it felt fine afterward so I thought nothing of it then when I was giving my mom a therapeutic massage it popped again. And the next day on and off my hand and forearm “tingle” like they are asleep but function normal with the exception of grip power being about 50% ish when not feeling like that I’d say grip is between 75-90%. Also, now my right hand is starting to do the same thing, without the popping incident and when I squeeze the bar for Dl’s, row, presses ect. I feel a sharp pain momentarily the tendons in my forearms with it being sharpest at the wrist. Sorry for the long answer and thank you again for your time and any advice!
[quote]FarmerOwen wrote:
Howdy dude thanks for taking the time to help me out! The more I think about it I thinks its both tendon and nerve…the other day I was yanking on the pull start on our ATV when I felt a pop in my left hand but it felt fine afterward so I thought nothing of it then when I was giving my mom a therapeutic massage it popped again. And the next day on and off my hand and forearm “tingle” like they are asleep but function normal with the exception of grip power being about 50% ish when not feeling like that I’d say grip is between 75-90%. Also, now my right hand is starting to do the same thing, without the popping incident and when I squeeze the bar for Dl’s, row, presses ect. I feel a sharp pain momentarily the tendons in my forearms with it being sharpest at the wrist. Sorry for the long answer and thank you again for your time and any advice![/quote]Is the tingling the entire hand or is it primarily the middle fingers to thumb portion? I ask because the nerve that runs through the Carpel Tunnel of the wrist controls from part of the ring finger to the thumb. So if you did something to aggravate it, you could experience those symptoms but your pinky wouldn’t be involved. The nerve slides through a small space in the wrist, and it is pretty easy to get in inflamed, and then it just doesn’t slide as easily (hence the tunnel). Something that always helps me when I have had hand and finger tendon issues is alternating ice and hot baths, where I make a bowl of ice water, and stand by the sink with the hot water running. I soak the hand and wrist in ice for 30 sec, then under hot for 30 sec, and alternate back and forth about 4-5 times each, always ending in ice, but for only about 10-15 sec the last time. It drives blood to the area for healing, and reduces the inflammation quickly. Plus Alpha’s advice about good fats and Omega 3, esp DHA will help in the medium to long term.
Hope this helps, and if there are any details I missed, let me know.
Jan 25th Workout
Climbing
Bouldering
V1 x 1
V2 x 1
V3 x 3
V4 x 2
V5 x 5
Notes: Mainly just warmed up and then worked a bunch of V6-V8’s Didn’t really send much, but made progress and linked some hard sections.
Lifting
Narrow barbell curls
45 x 10
65 x 10
85 x 10
85 x 10
85 x 10
85 x 10
85 x 10
85 x 10
Delt side raises
4 x 10 with 15’s
BW Conditioning
Every minute for five minutes, completed 10 situps, 10 pullups, and 10 squats
Notes: Just wanted a little bicep pump work, and something to get my heart rate up.
Ecchastang Dude YOU FRIGGIN’ ROCK! I did the contrast baths tonight , a huge help! And yeah its ring finger to thumb.
Thank you again dude.
[quote]FarmerOwen wrote:
Ecchastang Dude YOU FRIGGIN’ ROCK! I did the contrast baths tonight , a huge help! And yeah its ring finger to thumb.
Thank you again dude.[/quote]
Anytime man, good luck with it. And Try to sleep with your wrists in a neutral position at night, rather than curled up any. It keeps from compressing the nerve anymore, allowing better blood flow.