Ohh didn’t know you were logging dude, awesome!
Definitely will be following along
[quote]dagill2 wrote:
How do you find combining climbing and lifting? Do you consciously limit the amount of grip work and pulling involved in your lifting?[/quote]
I don’t necessarily limit grip work, and in fact have been doing a bunch of fat bar (2" axle bar) work lately. Grip, being isometric, is very specific to the same ROM or contraction that is being worked. For instance, gripping a 29mm deadlift bar is different than a 2" axle bar, or plate pinches, or slopers or crimps with climbing. What I do though is climb before any work that my tax my climbing grip. When doing both on the same day, I generally prefer to climb first. I don’t do a ton of pulling, as my climbing is predominately back work anyway. As you will see over time with my log, I still do some, just not as much pulling as I do pressing. But I climb about 5 days per week. Also much of my climbing is way steeper than vertical, so I am not just pulling with the arms above, but with the arms straight out in front of me as well.
Such as in this video.
This is a little older video, and I am about 22 lbs heavier now, with about 18 of it being muscle. The problem is that in a gravity sport, muscle is generally just extra weight. I know if I got down to sub-140, my climbing would be better, probably 13b/c range, but I like lifting also. It is always a trade off, and I might have to bulk even more to hit my goal of 405 on the bench, but my body is adjusting to the added weight better than I expected.
Jan 5th Workout
Climbing-bouldering
V2
V3
V5
V5
V6
Notes: Worked some harder V6 and V7’s. Made decent progress on one in particular. No new routes in the gym, so got bored and started lifting sooner.
Lifting
Conventional deadlift double overhand (all reps with about a 2 second pause at bottom to set up.
135 x 5
185 x 5
225 x 5
255 x 4
275 x 3
275 x 3
275 x 3
275 x 3
Barbell rows
135 x 10
135 x 10
135 x 10
Conditioning
3 rounds of the following for time
21 KB swings 53 lbs
15 box jumps 20"
9 pullups on fatbar
time to complete 6:57
Notes: First time straight bar deadlifting in a while (without the 2" fatbar, anyway) and it felt decent. Still need to work on my overall conditioning. First round of the 21/15/9 was just under 2 minutes, but couldn’t maintain pace.
[quote]Ecchastang wrote:
The problem is that in a gravity sport, muscle is generally just extra weight. I know if I got down to sub-140, my climbing would be better, probably 13b/c range, but I like lifting also. It is always a trade off, and I might have to bulk even more to hit my goal of 405 on the bench, but my body is adjusting to the added weight better than I expected.
[/quote]
This is the balance that I never achieved when I was climbing seriously. I could do amazing things on a campus board and had the upper body to go with it, but would probably have struggled squatting with just the bar, I was so emaciated below the waist.
@Dagill2 That is how most climbers are, especially the top ones. Climbing hard with 12 inch arms and 11 inch calves.
Jan 6th Workout
Lifting
Bench press
Standard warm-up
bar x 10
135 x 5
185 x 5
235 x 4
275 x 2
305 x 1 paused
Working sets
290 x 4
290 x 4
290 x 4
290 x 4
290 x 4
290 x 8 (AMRAP)
Dead bench
245 every 40 seconds for 6 total
Shoulder prehab
4 x 15 band pull aparts
2" Axle bar curls (supersetted with 10 abwheel rollouts)
83lbs x 10
83 x 10
93 x 10
93 x 10
93 x 10
Hammer Curls
35’s x 10
40’s x 10
40’s x 10
Incline dumbbell curls
25’s x 10
25’s x 10
Notes: The first 4 sets of 4 at 290 didn’t feel great, but the 5th set felt fantastic. Then on the 6th, I coughed on the descent of the first rep, screwing up my breathing pattern for the next 4 reps. Couldn’t believe I got 8, which matches my best set of 8 ever, and on my 6th set, no less.
[quote]Ecchastang wrote:
@Dagill2 That is how most climbers are, especially the top ones. Climbing hard with 12 inch arms and 11 inch calves. [/quote]
You don’t get many garter snake arms in the climbing world.
Jan 7th Workout
Climbing
routes-superset
10b, 11b
11c, 10c
11d, 10b
11d, 10c
11b, 10b
11c, 11a
11b, 11b, 10b
Notes: Went for higher volume, lower intensity today. All pitches were done as doubles, except for the last triple. I would climb the first route, lower and immediately pull the rope to climb the second one without resting. Lots of mileage, and vertical footage, well over 500 total ft of slightly to severely overhung climbing.
Hey, Ecchastong, I saw your post. I’ll definitely start doing them as a warm up/extra workout.
Jan 8th Workout
Lifting
Bench
Warmup (pause first rep)
bar x 10
135 x 5
185 x 5
225 x 4
265 x 2
295 x 1
315 x 1 paused
Working sets
265 x 8
265 x 8
265 x 8
265 x 8
extra wide grip paused
235 x 8
235 x 8
close grip TnG
235 x 10
235 x 10
Low incline dumbbell press
70’s x 12
70’s x 10
EZ Bar Curls (supersetted with last 6 sets of pressing)
70 x 10
90 x 10
100 x 10
110 x 8
110 x 8
110 x 8
90 x 12
90 x 12
Concentration Curls
30 x 10
30 x 10
Shoulder prehab work
4 x 15 band pull aparts
2 x 10 side lateral raises with 15’s
2 x 10 scap raises with 15’s
2 x 10 pullup retractions
2 x 10 overhead barbell shrugs
Core
Tabata mashup of planks and side planks ( 16 rounds of 20 second work, 10 second rest)
Conditioning
Stairstepper 30 sec slow/30 sec fast for 5 rounds
Notes: Moved bench workout to today, as tomorrow I am climbing with a buddy at the bouldering gym. Lifting felt good, and 315 paused went up fast off the chest. The work I have been doing to improve speed off the bottom is working.
Jan 9th Workouts
Climbing
Bouldering
V2 x 2
V3 x 2
V4 x 3
V5 x 5
V6 x 1
V7 x 1
Notes: Went with a friend to the bouldering gym in town, got a lot of volume, and worked a bunch of hard problems as well. Wrecked my fingers, then took a one hour coffee break and went to the gym to do some lifting and back work.
Lifting
2" axle bar deadlifts from 4" deficit
100 x 5
150 x 5
200 x 5
220 x 5
240 x 2
2" axle bar deadlifts without deficit
240 x 2
200 x 5
2" Axle barbell rows
150 x 5 x 5
Bent over lateral raises
15’s x 15
20’s x 10
20’s x 10
Notes: Grip was absolutely worked after climbing. Thought I would try the deficit deadlifts just so I didn’t have to go as heavy, but still did well. My previous best Axle bar deadlift was 253, and to double 240 from such a deficit was great. Grip was definitely the limiting factor. Wanted to do more back work, but was just exhausted from the 2.5 hrs of climbing.
[quote]Ecchastang wrote:
@Dagill2 That is how most climbers are, especially the top ones. Climbing hard with 12 inch arms and 11 inch calves. [/quote]
Yeah. My husband only lifts sporadically. And not with much weight. He has no interest in getting bigger. At 5’8", 148 lb, he is probably optimal size to maximize his rock/ice climbing potential.
[quote]kpsnap wrote:
Yeah. My husband only lifts sporadically. And not with much weight. He has no interest in getting bigger. At 5’8", 148 lb, he is probably optimal size to maximize his rock/ice climbing potential. [/quote]
I would definitely like to climb with your husband sometime. Will he be at the Feb meet? I will be there supporting a couple guys, but not lifting. Is he more into trad, I assume?
Jan 10th Workout
Climbing
Routes
11a
11d
11d
10c
12a
12d
11b
13a
11b
Bouldering
V2
V4
V5
V5
V7
5 x 10 chinups afterwards for some blood flow
Notes: Spent 3 hours in the gym climbing. Did well on the 12d, not as well on the 13a. Was surprised to get a V7 after all of that, and did all the moves on another V7.
[quote]Ecchastang wrote:
[quote]kpsnap wrote:
Yeah. My husband only lifts sporadically. And not with much weight. He has no interest in getting bigger. At 5’8", 148 lb, he is probably optimal size to maximize his rock/ice climbing potential. [/quote]
I would definitely like to climb with your husband sometime. Will he be at the Feb meet? I will be there supporting a couple guys, but not lifting. Is he more into trad, I assume?
[/quote]
Yeah. He’s a trad climber. He doesn’t usually come to PLing meets. I don’t like being watched:) I probably won’t be at that February meet anyways. Planning to compete out of state in March.
Jan 11th Workout
Lifting
Bench
Warmup (pause first rep)
bar x 10
135 x 5
185 x 5
225 x 4
265 x 2
295 x 1
315 x 1 paused
Working sets
280 x 6
280 x 6
280 x 6
280 x 6
280 x 6
extra wide grip paused
250 x 8
Strict OHP (supersetted with abwheel rollouts, and pullups)
bar x 6
115 x 6
135 x 6
155 x 6
165 x 4
Pullups (supersetted with OHP and abwheel)
BW x 6
30 lbs x 6
35 x 6
40 x 6
45 x 6
Semi-supinated chinups (v-shape grip)
50 x 6
55 x 6
60 x 6
Abwheel rollouts
8 x 6
Side lateral raises
20’s x 8
25’s x 8
29’s x 10
Ban pull aparts
4 x 15
Weighted dips
45 lbs x 8
45 x 10
Notes: Bench felt solid, and I am really enjoying the extra wide paused bench. Feels like it is giving me a lot of power off the bottom. First time trying weighted dips since shoulder issues during summer, and heaviest OHP since about July.
Jan 12th Workout
Climbing
Routes
11a
11c
11d
12b
12d
Bouldering
V4 x 2
V5 x 2
V7 x 3
Conditioning: Did 1 Kettlebell swing 53 lb, then 1 135 lb barbell row, then one 53 lb KB goblet squat, then 1 abwheel rollout. Then 2 of each, then 3, etc for 12 minutes. Got to round 9, 4 KB swings.
4 x 10 fatbar pullups
Notes: Climbing was good, but took a huge fall and slammed my belayer into the wall. She lost interest, so I switched to bouldering. Got a few V7’s and made progress on others. Would have done more, but the kids team arrived and swarmed the place. Conditioning felt rough, Something tweaked my bad hip, so I slowed down dramatically.
Jan 13th Workout
Conditioning: On Concept2 rower, row 250m every 2 minutes for 6 rounds. Rest in any remaining time of the two minutes before starting next round of 250m.
rd 1 - 62 sec, used this one as a warmup
rd 2 - 51 sec
rd 3 - 51 sec
rd 4 - 52 sec
rd 5 - 52 sec
rd 6 - 48 sec
Climbing
Bouldering
V1 x 2
V2 x 2
V3 x 2
V4 x 4
V5 x 4
Routes (did this in 4 sets. For sets of two, did a climb, lower and immediately did second climb. For sets of three, climbed up first climb, downclimbed second climb, and then climbed third climb)
10b, 10a, 11a
11a, 10b
11b, 11a
10b, 10a, 10c
Notes: Was going for lots of volume of climbing today.
Jan 14th Workout
AM - Snowboarding
PM - Lifting
Bench
Warmup (pause first rep)
bar x 10
135 x 5
185 x 5
225 x 4
265 x 2
295 x 1
315 x 1 paused
Working sets
295 x 4
295 x 4
295 x 4
295 x 4
295 x 4
295 x 8 (AMRAP) PR
Dead bench
255 every 60 seconds for 6 total
Seated cable low rows with close parallel grip
140 x 10
150 x 10
160 x 10
Hammer Curls
30’s x 10
35’s x 10
40’s x 10
Incline dumbbell curls
25’s x 10
25’s x 10
Shoulder work
4 x 15 band pull aparts
3 x 15 face pulls
2 x 10 lateral raises with 15’s
Abs
2 x 10 Roman chair leg raises
Notes: Felt exhausted and dehydrated after snowboarding. Was surprised I completed 8 reps, for a new 5 lb PR, and after 5 other sets, no less. Then just did a little pump work, and went home to eat.
Jan 15th Workout
Climbing
Routes
11a
11d
12a
12c
Bouldering
V4 x 2
V5
V6 x 2
V7
Notes: Warmed up on a few new routes, and then hit the new bouldering that was set. The V7 took a ton of effort.