JeffRage: I’ll work on finding a low carb marinade for you - Plus, a lot of flavoring from marinade is absorbed, but it turns out to be relatively little of the actual ingredients, probably on a couple tablespoons - I wouldn’t worry too much about it.
The herbs - dried herbs are fine in most cases (though I don’t find the basic herbas as tasty as fresh ones, like parsley and basil, but certainly buy things like taragon, majorum, etc. dried) - one thing to note though, dried herbs are a lot more powerful than fresh ones, so a tablespoon is about the same as a loosely packed 1/2 cup of fresh herbs.
Here is one of the “sure as hell ain’t dieting” recipes - I took this straight from Cooks Illustrated, but it is simply the fastest, best godamn chocolate cake I have ever seen. Find a good quality chocolate, preferably one from a speciality store (where you can buy good chocolates in bulk, like 6 dollars a pound). Otherwise, Ghiradelli works fine.
Fallen Chocolate Cake
This undercooked chocolate cake baked in a ramekin, now a popular restaurant dessert, is easily translated for the home kitchen.The challenge: Fallen chocolate cake is the sort of dessert that you’re more likely to order at a restaurant than make at home. But because its ingredient list is short and we expected the required techniques would be fairly simple, it seemed like a good candidate for the home cook’s repertoire of “fancy” desserts. We also knew, however, that restaurant recipes rarely work at home, so there would likely be a good deal of culinary translation ahead.
The solution: We began by making the recipes of two prominent chefs and a well-known food writer. Each had something a little different to offer. One was quite delicious and souffl?like in texture, but it lacked the intense chocolatiness and the rich, buttery texture of the other two desserts. Of these two, one was something like an undercooked brownie. The other, which was our tasting panel’s favorite, had the most intense chocolate flavor of the three, a relatively light texture, and a runny center. What we now wanted to do was to capture some of the ethereal lightness of the first cake with the rich taste and buttery mouthfeel of the third.
We next had to decide on the basic method of preparation and had two choices: (1) beat the egg yolks and whites separately and then fold them together, or (2) beat whole eggs and sugar to create a thick foam. The latter method proved superior, delivering the rich, moist texture we wanted while also simplifying the recipe.
After arriving at satisfactory amounts of butter (a half cup), flour (very little–one recipe had none), chocolate (we wanted a lot–but not too much), and eggs (four whole eggs plus one yolk gave us what we wanted: a cake that was rich and yet light, moist, intense, and dark), we turned our attention to cooking temperature. At the 450 degrees recommended in one recipe, the tops of our cakes (we were now testing them in ramekins, as this dessert is often presented in individual servings) burned while the centers remained too runny. At 350 degrees, the cakes became somewhat dry. Four hundred degrees was best, yielding a light, cakelike perimeter around a moist well of intense chocolate.
Now all that was left for us to decide was how the home cook would prepare it for serving–that is, without having to jump up from the dinner table to the kitchen to whip up an egg foam. We discovered that the batter can be made and poured into the ramekins ahead of time and refrigerated, then baked during dinner. The batter will hold in the refrigerator for up to eight hours, and it’s best to take the ramekins out of the fridge for 30 minutes prior to baking.
For good measure: In case you don’t have ramekins, we developed a version of the recipe to be used in both 8- and 9-inch spring form pans. In this larger form, the cake can be baked up to one hour before serving, remaining warm right in the pan.
INDIVIDUAL FALLEN CHOCOLATE CAKES
You can substitute 5 ounces of unsweetened baking chocolate for the semisweet if need be, but you’ll also have to increase the sugar by 6 tablespoons, for a total of 7/8 cup. To melt the chocolate and butter in a microwave oven, heat chocolate alone at 50% power for 2 minutes; stir chocolate, add butter, and continue heating at 50% for another 2 minutes, stopping to stir after 1 minute. If chocolate is not yet entirely melted, heat an additional 30 seconds at 50% power.
8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, plus extra for ramekins
8 ounces semisweet chocolate, coarsely chopped
4 large eggs
1 large yolk
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup sugar
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour, plus extra for ramekins
Confectioners’ sugar or unsweetened cocoa powder for decoration, optional
Whipped cream for serving, optional
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Adjust oven rack to center position and heat oven to 400 degrees. Generously butter and flour (or use cocoa powder) eight 6-ounce ramekins or Pyrex custard/baking cups; tap out excess flour and position ramekins on shallow roasting pan, jelly roll pan, or baking sheet. Meanwhile, melt 8 tablespoons butter and chocolate in medium heatproof bowl set over a pan of almost simmering water, stirring once or twice, until smooth; remove from heat. (Or melt chocolate and butter in microwave oven. See instructions above.)
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Beat eggs, yolk, vanilla, salt, and sugar at highest speed in bowl of a standing mixer fitted with whisk attachment until volume nearly triples, color is very light, and mixture drops from beaters in a smooth, thick stream, about 5 minutes. (Alternatively, beat for 10 minutes using a hand-held electric mixer and large mixing bowl.) Scrape egg mixture over melted chocolate and butter; sprinkle flour over egg mixture. Gently fold egg and flour into chocolate until mixture is uniformly colored. Ladle or pour batter into prepared ramekins. (Can be covered lightly with plastic wrap and refrigerated up to eight hours. Return to room temperature for 30 minutes before baking.)
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Bake until cakes have puffed about 1/2-inch above rims of ramekins, have a thin crust on top, and jiggle slightly at center when ramekins are shaken very gently, 12 to 13 minutes. Run a paring knife around inside edges of ramekins to loosen cakes and invert onto serving plates; cool for 1 minute and lift off ramekins. Sieve light sprinkling of confectioners’ sugar or cocoa powder over cakes to decorate, if desired, and serve immediately with optional whipped cream.
FALLEN CHOCOLATE CAKE
Serves 8 to 10
One large fallen chocolate cake can be prepared in either a springform pan or a cake pan with a removable bottom. Do not use a regular cake pan, as the cake will be impossible to remove once baked. Though the cake is best when served warm, within about 30 minutes of being unmolded, it can also be held in the pan for up to two hours before serving.
Follow recipe for Individual Fallen Chocolate Cakes, substituting an 8- or 9-inch springform or removable-bottom cake pan for ramekins. Decrease baking temperature to 375 degrees and bake until cake looks puffed, a thin top crust has formed, and center jiggles slightly when pan is shaken gently, 22 to 25 minutes for 9-inch pan or 27 to 30 minutes for 8-inch pan. Cool cake for 15 minutes, run a paring knife around inside edge of pan, and remove pan sides. Sieve light sprinkling of confectioners’ sugar or unsweetened cocoa powder over cake to decorate, if desired, just before serving, and serve warm, with optional whipped cream.
ORANGE CHOCOLATE CAKES
Follow recipe for Individual Fallen Chocolate Cakes or Fallen Chocolate Cake, folding 1 tablespoon finely grated zest from 2 medium oranges and 2 tablespoons orange liqueur (such as Grand Marnier or Triple Sec) into beaten egg and melted chocolate mixture.
November, 1998
Original article and recipes by Christopher Kimball