Basic mobility followed by some finger training. I’ve never tried finger training before, so this was new to me. Had no idea how it would go, so definitely experimenting.
“No-hangs” (basically deadlifting but using only a very small edge):
20mm edge:
10 x 9kg
8 x 16kg
5 x 20kg
3 x 24kg
2 x 29kg (equipment broke)
3 x 36kg
Realised i’d maxed out the weight i can use my current equipment with, so switched to the smaller edge
10mm edge:
3 x 16kg
3 x 20kg
3 x 24kg
0 x 36kg
Notes:
This was all about experimenting with a new tool that should hopefully help me climb harder using concepts that i’m already pretty familiar with. Limited very much by equipment at this point, in that i’m only really able to use a single kettlebell without causing the finger board to hang off to one side. Will have a look to see if any of my old weight plates are salvageable and usable, in which case i’ll just buy an olympic lifting pin. If not, i’ll get hold of a sling and hope i can combine the kettlebells into sensible progressions. Excited for the possibilities here. Hopefully a decent combination of newbie gains and a bit of basic strength training knowledge could have a big impact here.
Test 1:
Max hang on 20mm edge for 5sec:
Maxed out at 48kg, on second attempt. This was absolutely maximal for me, but a pretty good score
Test 2:
Weighted pull up: 24kg
24kg was fine 32kg wasn’t, max is probably somewhere in the middle
Test 3:
Core strength:
30sec bent leg L-sit was super easy
10sec straight leg L-sit wasn’t even close
Test 4:
Max time hanging from a bar:
1:30 more limited by mental energy/not really caring very much than anything.
Notes:
This was just a testing day for funsies, and to set a baseline for future training focus as i’ve never really trained any of these tests before. Had quite a group of us trying it, which made for some interesting comparisons and stuff to think about, i’ll save some of that stuff until i’ve thought it all through a bit more.
Test 1 is finger strength and where i scored nearly half of my points. My fingers are pretty strong, and certainly far stronger than anyone else we tested. It also adds some credence to the idea that finger strength is the most important metric because i have also climbed harder than anyone else we tested.
Test 2 is pulling strength, and uses the same scale as the finger strength. This was a pretty poor score, one of the lowest of the guys we tested. I need to address this, i think.
Test 3 is a core strength test. I absolutely bombed this and scored half as well as anyone else. This definitely needs some work, unclear how to add this to my already overfull training schedule.
Test 4 is endurance and frankly, who gives a fuck? I’m a boulderer, i don’t care.
Tl;dr: i have strong fingers and moderately weak “everything else”
Time limited again, chores this morning took longer than expected.
Not sure how confident i am with my pull up rig carrying much more weight than the 9kg regularly, so this might be an “increase reps” progression, probably build to 5 x 5 at this weight before coming up with another plan.
Also not convinced on the hanging leg raises as an exercise, due to space limitations, may switch to doing these on parrellettes instead. Also gives a better opportunity to add weights.
Very much like the ABCs as a one stop shop for conditioning and building some awesome.
I think the only modifications to make to planned programming is to make ABC days into ABC + pull ups and core days. Add jumps and slams to the start of Rites of Passage days and put all banded shoulder work into finger training day during rest periods. That makes 3xKB days a week, 2xclimbing days a week, 1xclimbing specific training days, 1x active mobility day. Add in standard mobility and cardio as sensible and i should be ready to go.
Rites of Passage week something, day something:
3 x 5 jumps
Kb clean and press/pull ups:
5 x (1-2-3-4)
Notes:
Early morning session before a long work day, felt pretty difficult, to be honest. The ladders really add up. Will have to make sure the final session is done with plenty of time and energy.
3 hours bouldering, mostly pretty easy working my way through a freshly reset section if wall.
5x3 pull ups @10kg
Notes:
Fingers not feeling 100% today, so didn’t push them too hard. Was a pretty good session though.
@aholding88 my main reason for these logs is to give @Cyrrex and @simo74 ammo to mock me, so i need to leave as many references to fingers in as possible.
