I saw that and it seemed weird to me to have 5. at the start of every grade, not that the british system seems any smarter.
From memory, most climbing centres used the Fontein (sp?) System with most of their routes set somewhere between a 3 for rank beginners and 8c for the absolute superstars. I believe 9s exist but I don’t remember ever seeing one, never mind climbing them.
We use the GB system for ropes
| French | UIAA | YDS | GB | AUS | Skill | |
| 1 | I | 5 | 3a | Novice ↓ | ||
| 2 | II | 5.1/5.2 | 3b | 11 | ||
| 3 | III | 5.3/5.4 | 3c | 12 | ||
| 4a | IV | 5.5 | 4a | VD | 13 | Beginner ↓ |
| 4b | IV+ | 5.6 | 4b | S | 14 | |
| 4c | V | 5.7 | 4c | HS | 15 | |
| 5a | V+ | 5.8 | HVS | 16 | ||
| 5b | VI- | 5.9 | 5a | 17 | Intermediate ↓ | |
| 5c | VI | 5.10a | E1 | 18 | ||
| 6a | VI+ | 5.10b | 5b | 19 | ||
| 6a+ | VII- | 5.10c | E2 | 20 | ||
| 6b | VII | 5.10d | 5c | 21 | ||
| 6b+ | VII+ | 5.11a | E3 | 22 | Advanced ↓ | |
| 6c | VIII- | 5.11b | 23 | |||
| 6c+ | VIII | 5.11c | 6a | E4 | 24 | |
| 7a | VIII+ | 5.11d | 25 | |||
| 7a+ | IX- | 5.12a | E5 | 26 | ||
| 7b | IX- / IX |
5.12b | 6b | Expert ↓ | ||
| 7b+ | IX | 5.12c | E6 | 27 | ||
| 7c | IX / IX+ |
5.12d | 6c | 28 | ||
| 7c+ | IX+ | 5.13a | E7 | 29 | ||
| 8a | IX+ / X- |
5.13b | Super Expert ↓ | |||
| 8a+ | X- | 5.13c | 7a | 30 | ||
| 8b | X | 5.13d | E8 | 31 | ||
| 8b+ | X+ | 5.14a | 32 | Elite ↓ | ||
| 8c | X+/XI- | 5.14b | 7b | 33 | ||
| 8c+ | XI- | 5.14c | E9 | 34 | ||
| 9a | XI | 5.14d | 7c | 34 | Super Elite ↓ | |
| 9a+ | XI+ | 5.15a | 36 | |||
| 9b | XII- | 5.15b | 37 | |||
| 9b+ | XII | 5.15c | 38 | |||
| 9c | XII+ | 5.15d | 39 | Adam Ondra! |
And Fontainebleau for bouldering. Or, almost. Indoors we have a set of different colored tapes that correspond to a range of grades. Each bit of tape marks a starting handle, and they usually span two grades. So, I think black tape signifies 6A-6B+.
| Hueco (USA) | Fontainebleau |
|---|---|
| VB | 3 |
| V0- | 4- |
| V0 | 4 |
| V0+ | 4+ |
| V1 | 5 |
| V2 | 5+ |
| V3 | 6A |
| 6A+ | |
| V4 | 6B |
| 6B+ | |
| V5 | 6C |
| 6C+ | |
| V6 | 7A |
| V7 | 7A+ |
| V8 | 7B |
| 7B+ | |
| V9 | 7C |
| V10 | 7C+ |
| V11 | 8A |
| V12 | 8A+ |
| V13 | 8B |
| V14 | 8B+ |
| V15 | 8C |
| V16 | 8C+ |
Hectic day, had to work from home to help out a friend in crisis. Didn’t have time to rehab my finger at all, obviously.
Hamstring wasn’t feeling it, so did a back workout. I think it had a rough go with me hitting rehab too hard Saturday, Squats Sunday, excessive (uintended) walking Monday, slipping on ice Tuesday and then again having to walk quite a lot yesterday. And sitting.
I’ve skewed my workout hours to after work now, as opposed to during lunch, so on my morning weigh-ins I’m heavier which is fine (and welcomed!) but the rate of change between days seem to indicate that I’m running my surplus a bit too high.
Trying to focus on the positive aspect of that, meaning I can now settle into a midway point between gaining too fast and not gaining fast enough. Obviously, a bit unhappy with what I see in the mirror as a result but I try to focus on that when I’m 10 kilos of muscle heavier that little thing that bugs me on the abdomen will be smaller in relation to the rest of me even if it might be bigger in regards to absolute measurements.
How did this start happening? I imagine it’s an aggregate of not moving around as much, my calories requiring less calories as they are less acute now, and a few food substitutions that mean that I end up digesting more calories than before. I.e., even though I kept the numbers fairly similar, maybe there was some “spillage” before during cooking that doesn’t happen with the selection this week. Changed too many things at once to be certain, but in the grand scheme of things I won’t even remember this mistake I hope.
DB Row
6@42
9@38
8@34
7@34
3s eccentric. Controlled concentric.
2 min rest before repeating the exercise with the same arm.
DB Pull-over, 1s pause in bottom position. 12/10/8/15+
12@36
10@38
8@42
17@32
3 min rest. Excellent performance increase
Neutral grip lat pull-down 3x8-10, hold peak contraction. 5 partials
Cable Row 3x8-10, hold peak contraction
Cable upright row with trap squeeze 2x8-10
DB Shrugs 2xAMRAP
Just wanted to pop in and say I’m reading along and enjoying your log.
Thanks, I appreciate that! 
when are we getting a lever vid!?
When I get a lamp in my room with the pull-up bar -_-' By the time I get home, it’s too dark to shoot anything >_<. Context: I’ve recently moved, and had to prioritise my purchases a bit. There is one room I rarely go into, evidently the room with my pull-up bar, and it wasn’t a priority to get a ceiling light in there. Or I’ll snag a vid in the gym when able.
A Real man would kick the kids out the park after school so he can preform levers on their jungle jacks for the gram . . . .
just sayin’ . . . .
At my latitude the sun has set before I leave the office. If anything that’d be even harder to shoot, I don’t want to leave my phone in the snow. I suppose I could prop it up on a piece of clothing.
I’m in the climbing gym tonight, I might be able to record something there
@dagill2 I think it’s got to do with numbers 1-4 being like a walk down the street to a strenuous/scrambly hike, but I could be mistaken. I like that story though so I’m going to stick with it.
@Voxel Thanks for the chart man! If I do some international climbing it’ll be a fun learning experience trying to choose a route. Some of our gyms stick to a specific boulder rating, but the one I’m at currently uses the range system. I think I prefer it myself since bouldering is just training for me. 7a is a pretty beastly grade, good work man.
I’m having a hard time visualising exactly how difficult that 7a was, it’s been so long since I’ve climbed and I’m not too clear on which grading system I was using anyway. I assume the Fonteinbleau, since I (mis)remembered the name and I certainly remember 8s existing. I was far more into bouldering than ropes climbs anyway so it would make sense.
Anyway, you’re certainly better than “good”.
Thank you. I really want to get to climb 7a and above consistently but I think I’d have to prioritise climbing over lifting to do that. And forget about gaining weight. So, it’ll take however long it takes.
When I was bouldering to a decent level (high 7s, early 8s on a good day. Likely Fonteinbleau grading), my legs looked like toothpicks. I can’t imagine that heavy squats and climbing to a high grade are good bedfellows.
Press
4@50, to have something to base my TM on. PR.
Push press
5@60
4@60
4@60
5@55
Close-grip Bench 3x10-12
10@65
10@65
10@ 65
High Incline DB press 4x6-8
8@24
7@22
6@22
7@20
EZ-bar Curls 3x10-12
Diamond Push-ups with a 5s pause in the bottom 3xAMRAP
Last session, Wednesday, I had a friend with me for the workout and again today. He mentioned something I took as a compliment. He said he observed during our previous session that I genuinely go to failure.
Trying to set-up next weeks weights to reduce risk of regressing in my healing.
I think I’ll do the first cycle 5/3/1-style (Original) and the second 3/5/1-style (Forever) giving my hamstring a little more time before pushing intensity on the squat.
I still haven’t deadlifted since the injury.
|
Lift |
Performance |
Projected Max | Training Max (85%) | Week 1 (Forever) | Week 1 (Original) |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Squat | 7@120 | 147 | = 124.95 | [87.5, 100, 112.5] | [80, 87.5, 107.5] |
| Deadlift | 8@130 | 164 | = 139.4 | [97.5, 112.5, 125.0] | [90.0, 97.5, 120.0] |
| Press | 4@50 | 56 | = 47.6 | [32.5, 37.5, 42.5] | [30, 32.5, 40] |
| Bench | 4@80 | 90 | = 76.5 | [55, 60, 70] | [50, 55, 65] |
I suppose I could run the upper-body stuff at 3/5/1 for both cycles and do 5/3/1 for lower body on the first cycle, but that just seems messy and I do not see the point. Or rather, I see some arguments in favour of it, but it’s not like they matter and while I can reason for doing it, I can just the same reason against it.
I really just wish I was all healed up and ready to go and didn’t even have to think about this.
When you say front lever you talking off a bar or on rings. Never tried one on a bar. Did lots and lots on rings as an athlete. Once the hernia is completely healed it be fun to try again. The back lever is what gets me. Shoulder flexibility is not good…
Is that a recent vid? Looks to me like your core is plenty strong. I’d focus a lot on pat strength. A straight arm pull down with a flat bar on a cable machine would replicate the motion really well. Another good and really fun option is to rig a puppy system where you can train the motion at about 50% of the load. I’ll try to find a video to attach
