I can’t describe how cool it would be to be able to just pop upstairs for a quick half hour bouldering session whenever you wanted though. An actual dream.
2 Likes
I hear people have made due with really small woodies in their home now during the pandemic. But I think if you want to have fun and not just a training tool it’s going to get proper expensive
1 Like
Honestly, half of the fun will be building it haha. Between actually enjoying building things like that (have done a fair amount of construction work in the past) and the time spent having a couple beers with my friends who are interested helping I’ll certainly get something positive out of it.
1 Like
One of the more ambitious and bigger ones I’ve seen
2 Likes
That thing is pretty sweet.
Thursday 2020-12-17
Decided to take a rest day and not go climb today because my shoulder was feeling a bit worse for wear, and my elbow wasn’t doing too hot either. Had the shoulder been fine I might have arrived at the same and done some hangboarding but instead I focused on rehab/prehab
First, wrist warm-up and then
- 4 sets of 30s pinches
- 4 sets of 30 reps of finger curls
- 4 sets of 30 reps wrist extension
- 4 sets of 30 reps ulnar deviation
- 4 sets of 25 reps neck harness
- 4 sets of 15 reps external wrist rotation
This was boring. Rehab usually is. I’ve had some success now with using Google Calendar to remind me of my hamstring rehab, which has
- One daily exercise (2x per day) (stretch)
- One exercise that is every other day (diver)
- One exercise that is every third day (glider)
and for medial epicondylitis the most important exercises are the wrist rotations and wrist extensions. The pinches are a variation of the latter when held in a certain way. Oh, and sometimes the wrist curl (eccentric only). So, will try to set-up a day 1: rotations, day 2: extensions, day 3 off, day 4: curl, day 5 off, repeat reminder in the calendar. And for extensions I’ll alternate between pinches and genuine extensions.
TIL: I have a tendon that not everyone has: a Palmaris longus.
1 Like
@tinkertailortanker heard you were looking for this
3 Likes
Ah there it is! Thanks. As usual Jim is spitting some straight facts.
Friday 2020-12-18
SVR II-ish
Assault Bike 4 minutes
| Warm-up Circuit (3 times) | |
|---|---|
| Cossack Squat | 5/side |
| Pike Push-up | 3 |
| Walking Lunge | 5/leg |
| Band Pull-apart | 10 |
| Lateral Leg Lifts | 10/s |
| Ab-wheel | 5 |
| Main | Set | Reps | Weight | Computed Weight |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| A. Deadlift | -3 | 10 | bar | |
| 40% | -2 | 5 | 60 | 62 |
| 50% | -1 | 5 | 80 | 77.5 |
| 60% | 0 | 5 | 90 | 93 |
| 70% | 1 | 5 | 110 | 108.5 |
| 80% | 2 | 5 | 125 | 124 |
| 90% | 3 | 9 | 140 | 139.5 |
| 70% | 4 | 16+4 | 110 | 108.5 |
| Assistance (Circuit) | ||
|---|---|---|
| Landmine Press | 3 sets | |
| Quad Split-squat | 3 sets | https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGR9E-WULfE&feature=emb_title |
| Single-leg Leg Curl | 3 sets |
Seem to have chosen decent TMs for everything except perhaps bench.
I also feel like I could do work sets at a heavier weight on deadlifts if it weren’t for my hamstring so it’s a bummer that hasn’t healed more despite rehab. The winter season and all the slipping that accompanies that hasn’t been helping. It’s curious when the weak link is one muscle and you feel it. Like, the rest of the machinery is like “alright, when does the show start?” and that one muscle is like “dude, the show is already over and we’re in the car on the way back home”.
4 Likes
I feel like it’s been a long time with the hamstring. Refresh my memory: When did you originally get injured?
Good question. The original injury was sometime early this year, as I lost my balance during a loaded stretch. I was able to rehab, somewhat meaningfully, but as pain disappated I got less disciplined with my rehab regimen. A couple of months later, it resurfaced while climbing as I max effort leg curled. Took a while before I restarted my rehab protocol on my own.
I’m pretty sure it’d be fine if it weren’t for periods of underfeeding. I realise now that the first time I ever went to a doctor on the path that’d result in me getting HRT I was exhibiting symtoms of Relative energy deficiency in sport (RED-S syndrome). This was before I had developed an actual disorder. One of the telltale signs is that injuries don’t really heal.
Trying to find a decent set of spikes to wear on my shoes to stop sliding about so much but haven’t found a reliable pair yet (they come off)
1 Like
It’s good that you’re providing this context because even most minor muscle tears would be fully healed by now. Did you ever get a diagnosis on what exactly is wrong with your hamstring? Did you get physiotherapy for it?
I did after the stretching accident, it was a pretty bad tear near the insertion. Given how it feels familiar I’ve presumed that the same rehab will be meaningful and it’s getting somewhat better. I will however ask my physio about a symptom I didn’t experience last time and see if he wants to screen for something else.
Was the tear confirmed by an MRI or ultrasound?
Also near the insertion = in the muscle belly or tendon? I assume we are talking about a partial tear or full blown?
No MRI/ultrasound, no idea if at the belly or tendon (not that I wasn’t told, I just don’t remember).
But yeah, for your future as a physiotherapist, if you have a patient that seems to do their rehab but isn’t healing make a point to consider if they are getting adequate nutrition to support their exercise regimen.
How would you know if they have done their rehab then? Depends, in my case one of the exercises are balance-oriented which is heavily influenced by practice so if your patient can exhibit a high-degree of control in the exercises that’s a decent clue. Also, memory. If you ask them to do their regimen, can they without having to refer to a note?
Also ask about confounding factors. I think walking less might have made it heal quicker.
1 Like
Nutrition is definitely a valid point to consider.
I don’t blame your physio for not catching that point. I would blame him for not looking into why you’re not getting better and not changing the rehabilitation approach though or in last consequence: Not referring you elsewhere.
Your injury should have been healed by now. Especially since we know you are very active, do your rehab and your strength training. Maybe push for an MRI or try to see an orthopedic doctor?
Walking… would have to be really excessive and be done way to soon after the injury to hinder recovery. Otherwise it should help.
I’ve seen some muscle tears (happens a lot in strongman comps) and if the hypothesis of a torn muscle bundle/ torn muscle fibers is correct (more common than a full on muscle belly or tendon tear but especially in English the term is used to describe a rangeof tears), then the rehab process usually is pretty straight forward for most athletes.
In conclusion: I think it could really help to get a confirmation on what you are dealing with right now, so that your physio or whomever can take a more precise approach.
Well, I haven’t brought up this instance of it with him so I’ll start there. Might be that the last tear hurt hip hinge and this one hurt the other function. It might not be the same type of tear. And I wouldn’t expect him to catch the nutrition problems either. But I’ll absolutely ask if that’s worthwhile for us to pursue after he has a chance to look at it. After all, if I have a different kind of tear I might need to rehab it differently.
And like, it does happen that I throw similar heel hooks and I regress so it’s on me too that it’s not healed. Deadlifting can hurt and still I deadlift. Squats can hurt and I do that too.
1 Like