Stiff leg deadlift to the limits of his ROM using blocks if necessary. Progress ROM over time. Weighted specific stretch = ez mobility gains
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I wouldnāt say should. You do climb slow and you know that. But so do I, this was especially bad after Iād done a lot of traditional climbing. Falling was mostly not an option.
To get me back into bouldering I would run fun drills to get me moving and back into using explosive power and fast footwork. Iāve seen plenty of pro climbers do this and itās the same idea as wall balls before bench.
Hereās a world champ messing about: Shauna Coxsey on Instagram: "Back in my happy place! I had THE BEST session today! Lots of funky moves (low to the ground š¤£) and lots of laughter too! Iāve missed making up moves and flailing around sooo much! Thanks @leahcraneclimbing & @fairertimes āŗļø"
Having said all this, I also knew a slow boulderer who came 6th in the world. But he had ridiculous strength.
Iād like to be able to turn my body tension on that well, shiiieeet
Absolutely, it looks fun but the timing to go from a relaxed jump to instant tension is incredible. When Iāve taught athletic people how to climb that connection between body halves and tension through the toes have been the two things that take time to develop.
Btw do you do drop knees often? Can you get into that position comfortable.
Most of the time sure, the only thing that is potentially discomforting is a heel hook with my right leg as my hammie is still a bit unwell. I do tend to flag far more often, as the place I normally climb at has very smearable walls. This place is teaching me to move in slightly different ways as the wall is fairly slick.
Saturday 2020-11-14
Climbing
A mate is about to get lead certified but wanted to practice a final time so went up and down on auto-belays while clipping QDs so he could practice (and he also got to practice climbing of course).
I worked on a monster 6b (flash) that has these big spongy organic looking holds that become like irregular pinches which are challenging for me.
And another 6c (one fall) which was very crimpy and it felt good to climb something with tiny edges now that my pulley feels better. Learned a bit about moving while having matching hands on a small grip as the fingers have to straighten as the wrists elevate pushing me out from the wall which sent me on that fall. I might have had the strength to hold it but a fellow wanted to climb past earlier during the route so I had some fatigue during that move.
Finished up with some boulders. Noted on two boulder problems that I want to strengthen the back of my right shoulder specifically. Got some biofeedback telling me that might be a worthwhile investment long-term.
I have to stop relaxing back onto tendons and ligaments. I did this a ton as aā¦ I wouldnāt say bullied kid just one of the smallest and weakest kids around so easy to dominate physically when other bigger kids wrenched on my joints Iād just relax into whatever position they were pushing me into. And I find myself doing that in motion while climbing.
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My opinion is that it looked too easy to really judge form. My personal preference for āperfect formā would be smoother, rather than quicker. Thereās nothing to my mind that says grace and mastery quite the same as someone who seems to just flow over the wall.
Will try to find something I can barely do! I know one candidate problem but itās downtown and not sur when Iāll make it there next
Iām not going to have much useful critique for you. In person, Iād probably be pretty useful to help you solve a particular problem but I wouldnāt be much use otherwise.
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Monday 2020-11-16
AM Climbing
Lead, warmed up on a 6a+ that was gnarlier than expected and carried a pump through the rest of the session. Challenged myself with more crimp work. Will boulder instead for these early sessions and schedule a consistent lead session on the weekend
PM
Bench Press: 6x67.5, 6x67.5, 6x67.5, 6x67.5, 6x67.5, 17x60
Overhead Press: 8x40, 8x40, 8x40, 8x40
Lat Pulldown: 10x50, 10x70, 10x70, 10x70, 10x60, 14x60
Cable Lateral Raise: 10x2.5, 10x2.5, 10x2.5, 10x2.5
Bar Dip: 6x76.6x0, 10x76.6x0, 10x76.6x0, 10x76.6x0, 10x76.6x0
Tricep Pushdown With Bar: 10x15, 10x15, 10x15, 10x15, 10x21.3
Total Sets: 30
Total Reps: 279
Average Weight: 46.2 kg
Total Weight: 12901.1 kg
#strengthlogapp
Supersetted chest dips and pushdowns because I was hungry and wanted to come home. I think that chest dips are no bueno with my shoulder
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The best reason to superset.
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It turns out that, as of the new year, Iāll have an opportunity to boulder weekly again pretty easily. Any tips for combining a weekly bouldering session with lifting for those who are no longer young, dumb and indestructible?
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In the beginning, and for quite a long time, I reckon one to two sessions per week wonāt put a dent in your lifting abilities as your hands will limit you. And then unless you are light youāll run out of juice after some sixty-ninety minutes. Maybe cut out one hard conditioning session and observe the principles that you know work. Start light. Too light. Donāt progress quicker than you have to and youāll be all good.
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Wednesday 2020-11-18
Lunch Bouldering. Not much of note other than the elbow holding me back on a few problems. And a 9a climber was in the hall with her Coach. Things I canāt even pull on was what she was semi-casually figuring out (not limit bouldering).
The reason we came in late was I had an appointment before and I feel this was a tad too close to lifting.
PM Deadlifts
For kicks, as @aldebaran has been commenting āfuck yeah, volumeā I went back to my older sessions and noticed they equated to a higher tonnage. I do miss that style. Specifically the intensity although Iād dial it back just a smidge. I donāt miss overthinking things.
Right now, itās also beneficial for my hamstring I think with these lower intensity loads but theoretically I could do 3 out of the 4 workouts as I used to and basically make my deadlift sessions about core work and rehab. Iāll consider visiting my PT if it doesnāt get better. The most worrisome aspect, honestly, is that it hurts to sit and lie on the muscle after usage.
Deadlift: 8x120, 8x120, 8x120, 5x135, 5x135, 5x135
Front Squat: 8x40, 8x50, 8x60, 4x70, 4x60
Good Morning: 12x40, 12x50, 12x60
Leg Extension: 10x54, 10x54, 10x47, 12x40
Lying Leg Curl: 10x46, 10x53, 11x46, 14x46
Hanging Leg Raise: 10x77.4, 10x77.4, 7x77.4, 10x77.4
Cable Crunch: 9x31.3, 12x31.3
Total Sets: 28
Total Reps: 252
Average Weight: 58.3 kg
Total Weight: 14683.1 kg
#strengthlogapp
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It will be one session a week, more than likely. I canāt see doing more. Thanks man.
No problem. Tag me if you run into any problems. I feel like thereās workarounds for a lot. I just take principles from the weight room and bring them with me to the hall. Today I didnāt want to go as hard so I did hover holds to work on my body tension. I tried two different styles. One were as my hand left a hold I had to hover it there for two seconds and then explode to the next hold and the other was the opposite, I had to hover before landing. I did both on the same problems and had to find alternate betas for each approach.
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Most likely tonnage was higher because your last deadlift session, you used compounds with wich you can use more weight (deficit deads, hip thrustsā¦)
Here itās more āqualityā work (front squat, good morning), you canāt sue as much weight, even though your FS seems a bit low!
I think that even though volume can be very detrimental, we underestimate how much volume we can tolerate!
I can understand your feeling ahahah
Working through injury is always annoyingā¦ But youāre still working through it!
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True, Iām going to compare some other sessions (UB) when Iām at a computer again.
My FS hurt my hip, I tried starting at 60 but got a nope so I offloaded and worked up. These were ATG and quite controlled though but yeah my core gives out quick. Seems to be a movement where as soon as it is out of rotation I lose everything. My best is 80 or 90. Still low, but far better.
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Well if it hurts your hipā¦ Maybe donāt go as deep? I feel you on the abs partā¦ But your best regular squat is what around 150? Your FS should be around 120-125 hehe
I could maybe do a single at 140, unclear with my current posterior tweakage but not too long ago I did threes at 135.
But then I do those with a belt and I donāt front squat with a belt as the FS really lights up my core, my core is a functional weakness, so Iām fine with losing out on some quad work to bring that up instead.
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