Not too cold just takes a lot of time. There’s some local stuff but I’ve done those problems many times so it’s hard to train for something you’ve done a few times already. There’s lots to do out of the area but I weigh that up against time away from kids and certainty of good conditions.
I used to route set at a wall as part of my job. This was before the more dynamic problems with large volumes (the big shapes used to change wall shape) became available. I set on probably the UK’s hardest lead wall, at the time. Sometimes for national competitions like the national youth comps and university comps.
Setting is a workout in itself, especially on steep walls. Once you have a library of moves in your head built from experience, you can set a consistent lead climb in minutes.
Would adding a weight vest be enough of an added stimulus to stimulate you? Or like, pausing before you take the hold, just… rudimentary things to increase the difficulty.
Really? I went bouldering indoors about 2 weeks ago, seemed to be operating pretty much as before. Are the new restrictions (whatever they may be) likely to put a stop to that?
You could, but the real fun comes from setting an absolute cracker that’s taken you all morning to set and then spending all afternoon watching people figure out.
Nah, it’ll be allowed, I meant I’d stay away for shielding purposes.
Agreed for setting bouldering but routes, imho, should be set mostly for the pump. I might set 2 out of 10 routes as a thinker, the rest will have a variety of moves but no out of place crux. Or scary top move to get to the anchor, or first two clips.
Agreed 100% I just enjoyed, and spent far more time on the 2 thinkers.
And setting bouldering problems is mostly for showing off with your shirt off in my experience. There may be other benefits too, but I was never really interested in those.
One of my proudest setting moments came when a ex European champion told me that the route was great and swore at me in the same sentence. It was a gaston with shallow slopers on a overhang. He spent some time working that route which made me quickly up grade it
I’ve seen enough people at the hall and at the crag have zero ability to assess their own capabilities so if I were to set routes I believe I’d have the first two clips be fairly benign.
Yeah absolutely, first two clips are real easy. Some belayers are awful as well, even those experienced. Very few people I’d tie on with, regardless of qualification.
Indeed. I don’t have any authority to do this where I climb but more than once have I desired to take a pair of scissors to a person’s card (if someone’s done an indoor top-rope course and exam they get a green card. Red card for lead).
Yep. I think I get where you’re coming from. Personally I’ve never looked better than when I was combining climbing, swimming and lifting, albeit with the advantage of a pretty easy life, teenage hormone levels and a complete indifference to lower body mass. As always though, YMMV
I was never wanting or expecting to excel at either as individual pursuits, just have some fun and look good with my shirt off. For those goals, they seemed to work together pretty well.
I think for the average person some basic strength and conditioning combined with a bit of climbing and you’re golden. E.g 531’s big 4 covers the gaps that climbing doesn’t.
