Nordic Blood: Climbing And Lifting / Lifting And Climbing

Climbing coach, give me all your sport climbing knowledge! :smiley:

I’ve been climbing for 1.5-2 years. Whenever I start sending 7a’s is when I tend to suffer a pulley injury. I’ve had two injuries thus far, one in each hand. Ring finger both times. First one took 4 months to heal, the second one is still healing (~4 months and counting).

Recently, I’ve adopted a submax approach to climbing and started doing a lot of volume on grades 6a-6c, with the occassional push into 7a and this seems to be treating me a lot better.

Primary interest is sport climbing, secondary interest is bouldering. Want to improve both. Settled for climbing twice weekly, as that seems to reduce my injury rate. Another recent inclusion as to how I approach climbing is ā€œdeloadingā€ every 6-7 weeks and not climb at all. That’s seemed promising. Thinking about climbing 3x/wk and deload more often, say every 5-6 weeks.

I prefer to lift 4x/wk, if I could stomach lifting less I’d maybe climb in a 2-on-1-off schedule. But, if you had three weekly climbing sessions how would you approach that? 2x lead, 1x bouldering?

Note: I’ve not done any hangboard training, that’s not the way I’ve been fucking up my pulleys.