I pick this one.
The chocolate one.
I like the one at the very back
[quote]coolnatedawg wrote:
I want all of them! But the one right there in the middle would win.
I have never done any reading on the subject, but when picking out a PUPPY, how are their personalities really that different? I figure there are only 2- the scared one that either runs away or doesnt approach and then the curious one that plays around and comes up to you. It’s like 50/50 on the type of pup you are getting.
This more a statement to be corrected than anything else. Also, it only applies to “normal” pups not ones with noticeable mental/other health issues.[/quote]
They do have different personalities, even as pups. Some will be more affectionate, others more playful/energetic and some might be shy/lethargic, etc. Talk to breeders, they can give you a lot of insight as to how pups that behave a certain way will likely end up behaving as adults.
DB
[quote]dollarbill44 wrote:
[quote]coolnatedawg wrote:
I want all of them! But the one right there in the middle would win.
I have never done any reading on the subject, but when picking out a PUPPY, how are their personalities really that different? I figure there are only 2- the scared one that either runs away or doesnt approach and then the curious one that plays around and comes up to you. It’s like 50/50 on the type of pup you are getting.
This more a statement to be corrected than anything else. Also, it only applies to “normal” pups not ones with noticeable mental/other health issues.[/quote]
They do have different personalities, even as pups. Some will be more affectionate, others more playful/energetic and some might be shy/lethargic, etc. Talk to breeders, they can give you a lot of insight as to how pups that behave a certain way will likely end up behaving as adults.
DB [/quote]
I’m not in the market right now but I would probably do that when the time comes.
That said, I think it’s hard to base a puppy off of that experience. We got my dane when she was an older puppy. She was very mellow, didn’t do much, and just seemed kind of sad.
Soon after that: she loves running circles in the yard, tearing the eyes off of every stuffed animal/ornament in the house, and gets into everything. Total 180.
She’s old now (10) so she has lost some of that but she still gets a wild hair every now and then. And yes, I realize 10 is OLD for a dane. Please don’t remind me because I realize I don’t have much time with her or her brother (also 10) and it makes me incredibly sad.
That’s all I’m saying.
I’m no dog whisperer and don’t even play one on the web but I have picked a few winners so,
The short answer:
Litters have pecking orders say in this particular case use numbers 1-7.
Number 7 is usually the bully, runs roughshod over all his mates and tends to be bigger because he is able to push his way in and stay on the tit longer and eventually turns into that obnoxious/destructive neighborhood kid you always wanted to punch in the neck. Does not respond to pressure/obedience training well in the sense that he can be hard headed and no amount of pressure will make him do what he does not want to do.
On the other end of the spectrum you have number 1 that is typically the opposite of number 7. Shy, timid, underweight, pisses on himself if he looks at his own shadow. A real cat.
My advice: stay away from both.
Next you have everything in between 2 thru 6 and it comes down to temperament and what YOU are looking for in a dog. In the best case scenario you would look for number 4 to be your winner: well-rounded, not too rambunctious but not a push over either. How do you find this elusive number 4 you ask? One by one I put all the pups on their backs and hold it down with my hand for say 5-10 seconds, not rough like or in any way intimidating and talk with a soft even tone. I then watch the reaction. Immediately submits and pisses on your hand, you probably have a number 1. HA. Next… Bites and squirms and raises cane = neck punch kid. Next…
The one “I” look for is the one that squirms a bit and maybe even try’s to nip at my hands a bit but then calms down and submits, and this is important, with the tail still waging. If after you let this guy up and he comes to you then you “may” have a winner. This guy has his own mind and will not give in until he recognizes you are the authority and he is fine with that AND he will be loyal AND he will live to please you. That is how the pack is programmed. They need a leader and he will go through hell & high water for you and be loyal AND protective of you AND your family.
It’s still a crap shoot though. Past success is no guarantee of future performance or some such…
Call me old-school but that’s how I do it. Some high powered labs go for thousands of dollars because of the lineage but the litter still succumbs to the pack mentality and pecking order.(the longer past 6-7 weeks a litter is still together the more ingrained this genetic imprint becomes. I always try to pick my pup up on the 49th day. Enough time to be in the mix fighting with his mates, building confidence, interacting, getting enough nutrients from momma, learning that he is a dog, etc.) I put in anywhere from 5-20 hrs per week depending on what time of the year it is training and working my dogs. With that kind of cash & time investment I want to put as many odds in my favor as possible so I can have a working dog that is still considered a well-mannered member of the family.
Hope this helps. Good luck!
Always go for the uglyst one the have more charachter, my advice would to be to get a dog so ugly you cant help but love him those dogs are too prety they will have no problem finding homes. If i were you i would get the dog at ihe very back.
Prolly the one in the middle or one of the ones in the back on the left.
The sad faced one, left center. The runts, once fed and raised are some great great dogs.
Jessica Alba.
For fucks sake, how many times do we need to have this thread?
[quote]DM65 wrote:
I’m no dog whisperer and don’t even play one on the web but I have picked a few winners so,
The short answer:
Litters have pecking orders say in this particular case use numbers 1-7.
Number 7 is usually the bully, runs roughshod over all his mates and tends to be bigger because he is able to push his way in and stay on the tit longer and eventually turns into that obnoxious/destructive neighborhood kid you always wanted to punch in the neck. Does not respond to pressure/obedience training well in the sense that he can be hard headed and no amount of pressure will make him do what he does not want to do.
On the other end of the spectrum you have number 1 that is typically the opposite of number 7. Shy, timid, underweight, pisses on himself if he looks at his own shadow. A real cat.
My advice: stay away from both.
Next you have everything in between 2 thru 6 and it comes down to temperament and what YOU are looking for in a dog. In the best case scenario you would look for number 4 to be your winner: well-rounded, not too rambunctious but not a push over either. How do you find this elusive number 4 you ask? One by one I put all the pups on their backs and hold it down with my hand for say 5-10 seconds, not rough like or in any way intimidating and talk with a soft even tone. I then watch the reaction. Immediately submits and pisses on your hand, you probably have a number 1. HA. Next… Bites and squirms and raises cane = neck punch kid. Next…
The one “I” look for is the one that squirms a bit and maybe even try’s to nip at my hands a bit but then calms down and submits, and this is important, with the tail still waging. If after you let this guy up and he comes to you then you “may” have a winner. This guy has his own mind and will not give in until he recognizes you are the authority and he is fine with that AND he will be loyal AND he will live to please you. That is how the pack is programmed. They need a leader and he will go through hell & high water for you and be loyal AND protective of you AND your family.
It’s still a crap shoot though. Past success is no guarantee of future performance or some such…
Call me old-school but that’s how I do it. Some high powered labs go for thousands of dollars because of the lineage but the litter still succumbs to the pack mentality and pecking order.(the longer past 6-7 weeks a litter is still together the more ingrained this genetic imprint becomes. I always try to pick my pup up on the 49th day. Enough time to be in the mix fighting with his mates, building confidence, interacting, getting enough nutrients from momma, learning that he is a dog, etc.) I put in anywhere from 5-20 hrs per week depending on what time of the year it is training and working my dogs. With that kind of cash & time investment I want to put as many odds in my favor as possible so I can have a working dog that is still considered a well-mannered member of the family.
Hope this helps. Good luck!
[/quote]
That’s an interesting way to go about figuring it out. Pretty cool as I have never thought of that. You definitely have a better knowledge of this so I was just trying to get a gauge for how to figure that out.
You have the dog with the duck in it’s mouth in that other thread, right?
coolnatedawg, that’s a tough deal with those breeds, hope they can be the acception to the rule and last a couple more years. My buddys Akida made it to twelve which I guess is rare.
DM65, I agree that’a a pretty sensible way to go about it. I did the upside down thing with my GSP and she lasted the longest out of a litter of eight…she was mental though lol. The one and only time she got sick did her in.
I was canoing on the weekend and some guy had his black lab diving for rocks in the river. Fuckin’ hilarious and so cool at the same time. This dog was really going under too, almost to the tip of it’s tail.
Is taking the runt a bad idea or is that a myth.
[quote]bond james bond wrote:
coolnatedawg, that’s a tough deal with those breeds, hope they can be the acception to the rule and last a couple more years. My buddys Akida made it to twelve which I guess is rare.
[/quote]
Yeah. I think the life expectancy is only 7-8 but they live the most glamorous life in the world. 30 acres to play around in, lounging on sofas, have their own mattress to sleep on, and get plenty of food. So no stresses other than the cats fucking with them.
And I couldn’t tell you about the runt thing but I feel like they would still make excellent dogs if taken care of properly. Do they still have more medical issues than others?
[quote]coolnatedawg wrote:
[quote]DM65 wrote:
I’m no dog whisperer and don’t even play one on the web but I have picked a few winners so,
The short answer:
Litters have pecking orders say in this particular case use numbers 1-7.
Number 7 is usually the bully, runs roughshod over all his mates and tends to be bigger because he is able to push his way in and stay on the tit longer and eventually turns into that obnoxious/destructive neighborhood kid you always wanted to punch in the neck. Does not respond to pressure/obedience training well in the sense that he can be hard headed and no amount of pressure will make him do what he does not want to do.
On the other end of the spectrum you have number 1 that is typically the opposite of number 7. Shy, timid, underweight, pisses on himself if he looks at his own shadow. A real cat.
My advice: stay away from both.
Next you have everything in between 2 thru 6 and it comes down to temperament and what YOU are looking for in a dog. In the best case scenario you would look for number 4 to be your winner: well-rounded, not too rambunctious but not a push over either. How do you find this elusive number 4 you ask? One by one I put all the pups on their backs and hold it down with my hand for say 5-10 seconds, not rough like or in any way intimidating and talk with a soft even tone. I then watch the reaction. Immediately submits and pisses on your hand, you probably have a number 1. HA. Next… Bites and squirms and raises cane = neck punch kid. Next…
The one “I” look for is the one that squirms a bit and maybe even try’s to nip at my hands a bit but then calms down and submits, and this is important, with the tail still waging. If after you let this guy up and he comes to you then you “may” have a winner. This guy has his own mind and will not give in until he recognizes you are the authority and he is fine with that AND he will be loyal AND he will live to please you. That is how the pack is programmed. They need a leader and he will go through hell & high water for you and be loyal AND protective of you AND your family.
It’s still a crap shoot though. Past success is no guarantee of future performance or some such…
Call me old-school but that’s how I do it. Some high powered labs go for thousands of dollars because of the lineage but the litter still succumbs to the pack mentality and pecking order.(the longer past 6-7 weeks a litter is still together the more ingrained this genetic imprint becomes. I always try to pick my pup up on the 49th day. Enough time to be in the mix fighting with his mates, building confidence, interacting, getting enough nutrients from momma, learning that he is a dog, etc.) I put in anywhere from 5-20 hrs per week depending on what time of the year it is training and working my dogs. With that kind of cash & time investment I want to put as many odds in my favor as possible so I can have a working dog that is still considered a well-mannered member of the family.
Hope this helps. Good luck!
[/quote]
That’s an interesting way to go about figuring it out. Pretty cool as I have never thought of that. You definitely have a better knowledge of this so I was just trying to get a gauge for how to figure that out.
You have the dog with the duck in it’s mouth in that other thread, right?
[/quote]
Correct