Don’t worry too much about the 5.4L tick, between me and my father we have owned 4 5.4L’s and they all tick. My dad’s 1999 F-150 has 200K on it still going no issues, my 2001 F-150 had 220K on it before I sold it, still worked great and regret selling it, my 2004 F-150 has 200K on it and no issues and my wife’s 2008 Navigator has 100K on it with no issues. I did the same as you when I got my first 5.4L, worried about the tick and spent alot of time troubleshooting it. I talked to a lot of owners, did a lot of research on the internet and talked to dealers. All had the some tick. So I quit worrying about it, did regular maintenance and drove the truck. Never had an issue with any and they have always got me home.
Do you run synthetic oil in it. Or have you compared how it sounds with synthetic vs. Reg?
Mines a 98 and I’ve had a fair amount of the common problems with it.
Exhaust manifold leak- typical that the bolts broke off and all had to be drilled out to merely put a new gasket on. Quite expensive
Plug blows out of head- dealer charges thousands to repair whole head. Auto parts store makes a kit for about 40 bucks that does just as well- actual kit exists because it’s so common.
Luke warm heat only- either your blend door is broken in the dash - which a deal charges about a grand d to fix or… you cut a hole behind* your glovebox and replace the door n hinge yourself for about 40 bucks. Or- you find that the blend door works fine . Seal it back shut. Realize it is now most likely your water pump. Which Tha fins have worn off the blades and therefore doesn’t push enough psi to properly cycle the heat thru your heater core. The typical symptoms of overheating or gauge fluctuations don’t appear on this vehicle. Most due to the fact that it’s a big cooling system w. 2 heater cores and… a big mechanical fan constantly cooling.
Sigh. 1998 Eddie Bauer Expedition.
[quote]cyruseven75 wrote:
So…for xmas i bought myself an 05’ f150, it’s been babied, no winters, one owner, clean carfax, had my mechanics go through it closely --it’s clean.
Doing the exhaust, cat-back magnaflow, dump in the side in-front of rear wheel. it has been lifted, leveled, and I’ve had the raptor tire/rim package put on it. Likely getting it tuned on a dyno after i buy a nice tuner for it.
Question — it has a “very” ford slight tick, tick, tick - you can hear it more so on right side under wheel area.
CAM PHASERS???
I’m a douche, bought it, “As Is” but it’s been around 30days - I’m pretty articulate and good at influencing situations to get what i want/need. It’s from a reputable Ford dealer in ATL, GA.
Long story short - I want them to handle the fix, considering the amt. I just bought this fucker for. Prepared to be nice but thereafter if they are fuck knobs—what are my options.
Was going to go w/ the hey look I work for a big corp. with an affiliation/business relationship w/ Ford, e.g. friends w/ the Co. ATL VP etc, etc…maybe sprinkle in my wife is a big fucking shit @ Emory e.g we know a ton of people and I like to write and spread the word about companies who are not handling customers fairly, e.g I FEEL LIKE IF YOU DON’T HELP ON THIS YOU ALL ARE FUCKING ME DRY (I bought it as so technically - I’m fucked yes?) —
bla, bla, bla - I’ll be nice first but then clear that my intention is to really create a communication storm if they are less than helpful. Truth - as a family unit I/WE like Ford - if treated well we will likely buy cars fron them for the next 10yrs and beyond…
Does any of this bullshit input matter???
How can I get a leg up, wondering who at the dealership I should communicate w/? the sales guys will push me to parts and the parts fuckers will just say “fuck you pay me.” who would be the pt person at a car dealership?
Also back to the initial Q. The truck is sweet but at 100k I’m nit sure what is really causing the noise, the make/model/engine sseem to point at an engine issue common w/ this trition 5.4l 3v.
If the cam phasers shit out I’m fucked - whole engine and transmission could shit the bed. I’ve heard spark plugs, cam phasers, exhaust manifold, coils, — most f150 form shit and or youtube searches point ot the cam phasers.
I’ve heard ford gives feedback - use motorcraft oil and change it every 2500 + use motorcraft oil filters —it seems they are just masking a fault in this particular engine.
Anyways - the truck is mine now, how should I proceed - I think step one is to take it to my guys, not FORD, and get some feedback.
Chime in if you’ve read this far…I’ll post a pic of the truck and then of a hot ass, just because I miss the SAMA side of this side…[/quote]
Well, I worked for car dealerships for years so I have a pretty good idea how they operate, particularly in GA. You’re not going to get very far with the dealership themselves, they don’t want to do the work nor pay for anything. They will throw through the the ‘AS-IS’ in your face.
First question, was this a ‘Certified’ used vehicle? If so, you have more power in the situation. If it’s a Certified Vehicle, their liability increases a great deal, but given the age it may or may not have been eligible.
Second, after you have dealt with the situation at the dealership then proceed in filing a complaint with Ford Motor company about the dealership and the service department themselves. Ford takes these kinds of complaints way more seriously than the dealership will. If Ford tells them to do something, they have to do it as impacts their status as a preferred vendor.
Third, find out the problem. What you want to know is if this was a known defect on the vehicle.
There are several places you can go to find out, but what you want is a technical write up by the Ford Motor Company and whether the fix recommended by Ford was every applied to you vehicle.
You can start by looking up Ford Technical Service Bulletins. Here are some links to get you started.
If you can find a service bulletin that addresses your problem it can make getting it fixed on their dime easier, especially if it was a recall that was never addressed.
I hope this information was helpful.
so…
appreciate all of the feedback- i was honestly just getting myself freaked out a bit. have a great mechanic, trustworthy - straight forward.
he literally doesn’t charge me for stuff he should, he pulled the plugs, all 8 to look at them, inspected all coils, fixed the loose one - put it all back together, cleaned MAF - drove me home while i waited on the truck because my ride was late.
he said the same thing- don’t pull anything apart, do scheduled maintenance and enjoy a real nice truck. all the plugs were new, and whomever owned the truck babied it.
the tick tick tick had me scared — some tick at 20k some tick new --most tick and run to 200k and beyond…
so…i guess now its on to the fun stuff, cutting off the exhaust - doing a magnaflow cat back, side dump in front of the rear wheel- thinking of not doing a CAI - i think they are really just for show and make the engine noisy potentially more trouble than worth. perhaps i’ll get a tuner, and then bring it to be tuned - know a place that can put it on a dyno and tune for me.
chime in - opinions on CAI, cat backs, and tuners!!!
cheers -
oh…and as for oil thinking of recommended 6 qt. 5w20 synthetic but every other oil change use 1 qt of pep boys mystery oil + 5 qt. of syn 5w20.
pat -thks for the info., barbed- thks for chiming in too!!!
I just bought an 09 F150 XLT with 4.6l V8. I don’t know how you decided on the Magnaflow exhaust but check out the Corsa dB performance part #24310. I’ll be putting that on my truck next week when it arrives.
Here’s a video of the Corsa Sport exhaust on a 2005 FX4 5.4l
i’ll look at vid now --haven’t decided 100% - listened to flowmaster and magnaflow - don’t like the hiss/pop feedback from flowmaster - hoping it is got a nice rumble but not droning while driving on highway…
[quote]Aggv wrote:
This thread perfectly illustrates what a racket the auto industry is today.
You’re telling me ford, gm, and chrysler cant make a simple full sized truck that will last?
Or maybe build an engine that doesnt require $1k plus worth of repairs before 100k?
How about some rust protection?
Oh yeah, if they built quality products that lasted more than 2 years there wouldnt be a need to replace it with another piece of crap? [/quote]
You mean like the 2003 Savanna 3500 that I had until 2012 with 180,000 miles on it (sold to a friend who’s still driving it), or the 2012 F350 that has 160,000 miles on it now? Neither one bought new. Neither one has had any repairs (other than me shorting some shit in the Ford).
Also have a 1997 Ford F150, first of the shittiest years of the 4.8L, it still has over 130,000 miles, and still runs fine (even though the check engine light is on).
The American trucks dominate the market for a reason, with the F150 being the best selling truck in the world.
No problem.
Sound is a bit limited as most stock manifolds and cats suck.
Borla seemed to offer a nicer sound than most…
Q: out there, as I want to make sure all things are ok on my new truck before i go dropping more cash on cat-back and tuner…
(redundant - this was a cut/paste from another forum to find answers) Mine has 122k babied by previous owner. Lifted/leveled raptor svt tire/rim package on xlt 05’ 5.4L 3v ----but it had the classic tick tick…last week it hesitated at idle, then felt it buck and miss while driving – Cel popped on thereafter, it was #8 - turned out to be a loose coil. Plugs and coils seem good now, tightened cop & cleaned MAF sensor --code gone all good for a few days…cold weather tonite…***at idle (red light) could feel it bumping a bit/slight shake then a noticeable shake/bump/hesitation -almost like it wanted to power down???
Any ideas I’m learning but still an idiot at this stuff!!! SOS - chime in if you know or know what i should be looking at/for…
looking at IWE vacuum leak vid an stuck vct solenoid vid right now – honestly though, just guessing based on symptoms. my guy told me the POG are good, he cleaned MAF.
pvc vacuum leak - next vid i’m looking at. aware of cam noise tick tick tick - didn’t think that related to rough idle issues, i guess since it’s all engine timing…heck, the more i read/look at the more i worry!!! i dropped too much on the truck to need to drop another 3k+ on timing/phaser replacement. most folks say that phaser tick/noise can happen @ 10k and the the truck could keep running to 300k…
Q: out there, as I want to make sure all things are ok on my new truck before i go dropping more cash on cat-back and tuner…
(redundant - this was a cut/paste from another forum to find answers) Mine has 122k babied by previous owner. Lifted/leveled raptor svt tire/rim package on xlt 05’ 5.4L 3v ----but it had the classic tick tick…last week it hesitated at idle, then felt it buck and miss while driving – Cel popped on thereafter, it was #8 - turned out to be a loose coil. Plugs and coils seem good now, tightened cop & cleaned MAF sensor --code gone all good for a few days…cold weather tonite…***at idle (red light) could feel it bumping a bit/slight shake then a noticeable shake/bump/hesitation -almost like it wanted to power down???
Any ideas I’m learning but still an idiot at this stuff!!! SOS - chime in if you know or know what i should be looking at/for…
looking at IWE vacuum leak vid an stuck vct solenoid vid right now – honestly though, just guessing based on symptoms. my guy told me the POG are good, he cleaned MAF.
pvc vacuum leak - next vid i’m looking at. aware of cam noise tick tick tick - didn’t think that related to rough idle issues, i guess since it’s all engine timing…heck, the more i read/look at the more i worry!!! i dropped too much on the truck to need to drop another 3k+ on timing/phaser replacement. most folks say that phaser tick/noise can happen @ 10k and the the truck could keep running to 300k…
The idea of the coil pack fastening is basic at best. A constant check to ensure the are tight n secure is a must. Some form of shake n miss like symptoms occur often. More so unDer load… ex. Under acceleration. … not sure of any re design between my 98 and your 05…