Sorry I haven’t updated in a while. Life has been hectic. Recovery is going well. I started climbing on toprope only 6 weeks ago and doing some limited bouldering. I did some lead climbing yesterday for the first time post surgery, just a 10 and 11a. I also sold my condo, and bought a house in Grand Junction with a garage. Finalizing the move tomorrow. I bought a rogue rack and about 900 lbs of weights and already have it in the garage. Hope to do my first home gym workout this weekend.
As to the hip, I am super excited. I am still restricted but have more range of motion than I have ever had, and know my lifting and climbing will be much improved with time. I did deadlifts today at 65# and (almost) could do it without any back rounding at the bottom. I think within the next few weeks, I should be able to eliminate that. Much better than pre surgery.
Why the move to Grand Junction? I’ve been through there (had a car break down around De Beque… well, we hit a deer carcass in the middle of the night), and spent a few days in Boulder, and it’s just a bit hard for me to understand why you’d move from there.
[quote]LoRez wrote:
Congrats on all the changes and the recovery.
Why the move to Grand Junction? I’ve been through there (had a car break down around De Beque… well, we hit a deer carcass in the middle of the night), and spent a few days in Boulder, and it’s just a bit hard for me to understand why you’d move from there.[/quote]
Getting far too crowded in Boulder. Can’t go climb or do anything in the mountains without dealing with tons of people and traffic. Plus other people decided my 1 br condo was worth more than I thought it was, so I sold and bought a house outright in GJ. Lower cost of living, no mortgage, less traffic, close to Rifle and Moab for climbing…wasn’t really a hard decision for me.
Workout 1 4x8 at 70% 1RM
Workout 2 5x6 at 75%
Workout 3 6x4+ at 80% (AMRAP last set only, do 4 on the first 5 sets)
Workout 4 add 5 lbs to workout 1
Workout 5 add 5 lbs to workout 2
Workout 6 add 5 lbs to workout 3
Workout 7 add 5 lbs to workout 4
Workout 8 add 5 lbs to workout 5
Workout 9 add 5 lbs to workout 6
Workout 10 Warm up to a single at about 80-85%, and then do 3x5 at 60% (deload day)
Workout 11 4x4 at 80%
Workout 12 4x3 at 85%
Workout 13 4x2+ at 90% (AMRAP last set only, do 2 on first 3 sets)
Workout 14 add 10 lbs to workout 11
Workout 15 add 10 lbs to workout 12
Workout 16 add 10 lbs to workout 13
Workout 17 add 5 lbs to workout 14
Workout 18 add 5 lbs to workout 15
Workout 19 add 5 lbs to workout 16
Workout 20 Warm up to a single at about 80-85%, and then do 3x5 at 60% (deload day)
Workout 21 Set new max!
Do you feel like this is a program you can run an appreciable amount of time? Say 3+ cycles? Is that what you intended, or more of peaking? I skipped the max and rolled into cycle two. Squatting and benching 3 days per week, with Deadlift on 3rd day working up to a 3 or 5 then a few back offs. Added 10 lbs to bench and 15 to squat for cycle 2. It’s tough, and have to focus on eating and general recovery, but seems effective so far.
Yeah, it can be run at least 2-3 cycles without maxing. Because you are going through periods of volume and then intensity it gives the body an adequate break from each during the full cycle.
Good luck with your move. Quite a change going from Boulder to Grand Junction. Hope you’re happy out there and that we still have the opportunity to cross paths on occasion. And great news on the hip!
[quote]kpsnap wrote:
Good luck with your move. Quite a change going from Boulder to Grand Junction. Hope you’re happy out there and that we still have the opportunity to cross paths on occasion. And great news on the hip![/quote]
Given that all the comps are in Denver, I am sure we will cross paths sometime.
[quote]kpsnap wrote:
Good luck with your move. Quite a change going from Boulder to Grand Junction. Hope you’re happy out there and that we still have the opportunity to cross paths on occasion. And great news on the hip![/quote]
Given that all the comps are in Denver, I am sure we will cross paths sometime. [/quote]
I did one in Glenwood Springs in 2009. Don’t think there’s been a meet there since.
[quote]kpsnap wrote:
Good luck with your move. Quite a change going from Boulder to Grand Junction. Hope you’re happy out there and that we still have the opportunity to cross paths on occasion. And great news on the hip![/quote]
Given that all the comps are in Denver, I am sure we will cross paths sometime. [/quote]
I did one in Glenwood Springs in 2009. Don’t think there’s been a meet there since.[/quote]I actually met a lifter yesterday who knows John Macdonald, another lifter I encountered at a NASA meet. They are trying to do some informal meets at Colorado Mesa University and at the local high schools. I told him that I want to get involved with helping that get going. I need to contact Dan Gaudreau about doing some stuff out here.
[quote]Ecchastang wrote:
Sorry I haven’t updated in a while. Life has been hectic. Recovery is going well. I started climbing on toprope only 6 weeks ago and doing some limited bouldering. I did some lead climbing yesterday for the first time post surgery, just a 10 and 11a. I also sold my condo, and bought a house in Grand Junction with a garage. Finalizing the move tomorrow. I bought a rogue rack and about 900 lbs of weights and already have it in the garage. Hope to do my first home gym workout this weekend.
As to the hip, I am super excited. I am still restricted but have more range of motion than I have ever had, and know my lifting and climbing will be much improved with time. I did deadlifts today at 65# and (almost) could do it without any back rounding at the bottom. I think within the next few weeks, I should be able to eliminate that. Much better than pre surgery. [/quote]
I’ve been sorta absent from the forums lately except for keeping my log up to date, but I am very glad to stop in and see this. Congrats on the new house and move, and good luck in continued recovery!
[quote]Quizers wrote:
Dude, you should totally post a template or spreadsheet of your DUP! I’m currently researching hella stuff about DUP but idk what to do tbh[/quote]
A template is posted above. DUP works, but so does a bunch of other stuff.
I know this is an old thread, but I figured I’d add my two cents.
-I love that you climb and lift! I’ve been climbing for two years and in the past 6 months am realizing that I need to lift to bring up weak areas and stay balanced.
-I notice you generally just go in and work on climbs. I think this is definitely the smartest way to improve overall as a climber because you learn technique and your strength improves. If you’re ever looking for a bump in strength though I would recommend 4x4’s, especially on a steep board. I’ve been told by many great climbers that volume over difficulty will get you physically stronger, and it seems to have worked for me. I plateaued at 12a/V5 this past winter, then did 4x4’s and campus board work for a montth. I was climbing 12d/V6 after that.
-Check out Dave MacLeod’s book “9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes” if you haven’t already. If you don’t know who Dave is, I regard him as the best climber most people don’t know about. He’s done trad climbs so hard he won’t grade them because he’s climbed the hardest trad routes in the world and hasn’t done anything as hard. He also boulders V15 consistently at age 37. This book saved me years of frustration and spinning my wheels.
